Our guide for the trip to Milford Sound was a chap named Dave Hughes - the owner of 'Trips 'n' Tramps' (tramping being the NZ term for long walks). A sheep farmer for most of his life he started 'people farming' (his phrase for tourism) about 15 years ago and now operates up to 6 buses, some 363 days a year. He also doubles up as the local courier, a point not lost on us as he stopped at a number of local houses en route with flowers, parcels and letters. Our fellow passengers consisted of 4 middle-aged Aussies who were really pleasant and a couple from California who were vastly different to most Americans we've met, they were quiet even to the point of near humility. Although the female of the American couple did win the award for stupidist comment of the day when suggesting they should build little sheep shelters for the poor lambs - it was then that Dave explained to her that an average farm could have 50,000 + sheep spread over many many heactares...

The trip to Milford is one of the most amazing 120 kms of road I have ever travelled, and we stopped at a few places on our way. The Mirror Lakes gave a reflected view not dissimilar to that at Lake Matheson (different mountain though), whilst at Deer Flats we all enjoyed a cup of tea/coffee/hot chocolate, and some great biccies that Dave swore he got up at 5am to bake...The road through the Alpine section (Homer's tunnel et al) had only reopened a day or so before and is closed regularly due to avalanches. It was, indeed, to shut at 4pm that evening so we had to be quick getting in and out. The tunnel itself was great fun, although I was pretty glad we weren't having to drive it...many a campervan has had an argument with a coach, and or the tunnel roof and many a campervan has been damaged. It is completely dark in the tunnel and it slopes at 10 degrees, so it's really daunting. Water constantly runs through the roof adding to the eerieness. However we got through (and back) with no problems. The chasm, some 11 kms before Milford was well worth a look - The shape of the chasm is similar to the Remarkable Rocks (Kangaroo Island, South Aus) in shape except that these rocks have been shaped by water running onto them, not the wind. There is all manor of swirls and patterns as the water thunders off the mountains at a hell of a pace.

After finally arriving in Milford we were shepherded onto our boat, the Milford Mariner, which was, bizarrely enough for a boat, voted best hotel in NZ in 2001. Strange people these Kiwis. We enjoyed the first hour of the cruise, the sheer walls, and waterfalls 3 times the size of Niagara Falls adding to the drama of being such a small speck in a vast glacial lake. Then the weather stepped in...it got so windy we couldn't hear ourselves speak, and we could lean in to the wind without falling over. And then the rain came. We tried to brave it for a further 30 mins before heading inside out of the elements only to have to sit next to a load of Americans who, from their accents I asumed hailed from the deep south...to say I have never met a more witless bunch of moronic individuals would be entirely the truth. Of the group of 7 or 8 at least half had not even been out of the bar area to view one of the most breathtaking sites I (and surely they would) have ever witnessed. When one of their group came in after one of the many waterfalls his wife remarked, rather prudly, 'I don't need to go outside now we've got a digital camera, Chuck (can't remember his name but Chuck fits about right) just takes the photos and I look when he gets back'...On another occasion Jen, who for her efforts at taking in the view had got soaked, was mocked - 'Look how wet she is...' IDIOTS. Then the particularly annoying fat one with the digital camera - 'Chuck' - who, incidentally was wearing a matching 'Dunedin Albatross' bright red sweatshirt to his wifes ('what taste!', or should that be 'what taste?') started singing in a 'look at me, I want to be the centre of attention way' some ludicroud ditty abou tbeing a pirate. He then berated anyone who cared not to join in, despite the fact no-one knew the words. Unsurprisingly his cronies found him utterly hilarious, so when we were disembarking I nudged him overboard and he drowned...only joking on that last bit. Despite the weather doing it's best we enjoyed the cruise and trip immensley and arrived back in Te Anau around 5.20 having had a great day.

Overnight it rained, and rained, and rained, and thundered, and rained, and rained...you get the picture...so much so that we both had the best night's sleep we'd had for ages (work that one out - we couldn't!) and have driven back to Queenstown to meet up with an old friend tomorrow. Tim is the son of Diana and Reg, and sister of Mandy, who my mum once taught (!). He emmigrated to NZ a few years back and now has a wife and kid (and another on the way) out here! We're meeting for a coffee tomorrow before we head back to Christchurch for a couple of days...South America is scaringly upon us, in fact this time next week we'll be in Chile...we're both excited but a little nervous at having to do some proper travelling again...