Monday, March 31, 2003

OK First thing. We're not dead. Nor have we been in a plane crash or got the flu (well it's got an incubation period of 5-10 days so I guess we could have...) we've just been away from the internet and enjoying life! Incidentally we were both really impressed with China Southern who we flew with today - new planes, food was OK and the air hostesses were alot better looking than the Vietnam ones.

Hong Kong was great fun and our host, Nicolas, is an absolute star, a real trooper! We went to the rugby 3 days in a row and, hey, England won the final - Nicolas even politely applauded our victory which is no mean feat as he is French. En route (like the French?)to the final we beat Australia and, one of the favourites, Fiji, so beating New Zealand for our second consecutive win was all the more sweet. On top of that we then went back into town last night to watch England stuff Ireland - a great weekend was had by all (although Jen has stated on at least 30 occasions she never wants to see men with funny shaped balls again...(the old ones are the...oldest...)

So - to Beijing where we've already been to Tiananmen square where we were promptly shouted at and asked to leave by some scary looking Chinese Military types, not being ones to argue and remembering 1989 (and all that...) we duely obliged...it turns out they were kind of closing it off for the night...weird really to see this huge open place completely deserted at 8pm...incidentally (again) we might have got away with it and could have stayed there longer if Jen hadn't said 'let's follow them' when said scary blokes starting marching towards one end of the square...

We've got 6 days in Beijing before we head to Xi'an (terracotta warriors) and then onto the Yangtze and beyond...we have looked into cruises on the Yangtze and the cheapest we can find (for 3 nights with an English speaking guide) is 280 USD PER PERSON...we might be kayaking and camping at this rate.

In our 6 days here we've got loads to pack in, with, of course, trips to the great wall ("It sure is a great wall" - Richard Nixon, President of the USA 1972), the Forbidden City, and the Summer Palace amongst others. We are struggling to fit it all in. As per previous post we are now missing out the Phillipines and have thus re-routed via Bangkok which means another trip to British Airways tomorrow - if this one takes another seven hours I will take to Tiananmen Square myself tomorrow night with a placard demonstrating against British Airways...(didn't see any tanks today so I might be alright...)

We've had a squillion emails (well about 15) so apologies for being crap and not replying, we will do, without fail, tomorrow as soon as we find a decent connection in the City as the one at the hotel is a tad pricey...



Friday, March 28, 2003

On our final night in Vietnam we went to the Water Puppets which was absolutely enchanting (God I sound like a travel writer, which I suppose ironically I now am...) although the music was a little draining after a while. Still definitely worth seeing if you've got an hour to spare in Ha Noi. Jen left her jumper there and amazingly it was still there an hour after the show...

The flight (via Vietnam Airlines) was really smooth in a (relatively) new Airbus, I even enjoyed it a bit although I'm not getting carried away and applying for my pilots license just yet...

Leaving Vietnam we were very sad to be honest - we really enjoyed everywhere we went although we've heard some real horror stories particularly from Helen and Rich who keep getting scammed...we didn't manage to meet up with them in the end...if you read this guys - hope Hoi Ann/Nha Trang/HCMC are better than the rest of Vietnam...you're gonna love Cambodia though.

We've found the quickest connection in the world - Hong Kong. This place is everything Vietnam isn't. Clean, structured, EXPENSIVE!!! We found a pub last night that sold Boddies on tap and Smirnoff Ice and although it was over 3 quid a pint it was worth it! We've applied for our China Visa (should pick up tomorrow) and also ordered an underwater camera case for Jen's camera - which was the only cheap thing we found - about half the price than the same one in the UK...

This whole place is a little crazy at the moment due to the flu outbreak - every other person is wearing a face mask although they take it off to eat/smoke/talk etc...It was very amusing when visiting McDonalds to see everyone tucking into Big Macs with the face mask off - Ronald must have some secret flu-busting formula so you can't get infected there (only by BSE of course (alledgedly)).

Our host (with the most) Nicolas who we met trekking has been exceptionally kind - even allowing us to sleep on his bed whilst he sleeps in a sleeping bag on his living room floor...we took him and his girlfriend (Karina) out for a meal last night as a way of saying thanks. He works some crazy Michael-Page-esque hours - 8-7ish every day - even Friday...

The 7s starts tonight at 5pm our time (we are now 8 hours ahead of the UK) and England are second up against Singapore - should be a laugh...

Last (but not least) happy birthday to Lynn, who is, 21 today which means she had Jen when she was minus 6.

Wednesday, March 26, 2003

Our visit to Madame Tussaud's (sorry, Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum - but hey we were both pretty sure it's a waxwork) was interesting for the fact that a) we weren't sure if it was a waxwork or not as it looked almost too (sur)real, b) it was interesting to see the massive presidential palace that this communist leader (some are more equal...) definitely did not live in - he lived in a little 3 roomed house on stilts, and only used the palace 'for entertaining'. Presumably he entertained these people with boiled rice and bowls of noodle soup and definitiely not smoked salmon and chateuaneuf-du-pape.

Despite leaving this world in 1969 he is obviously still held in very high regard - it was almost like a pilgrimage to a holy site, I even got told off for having my hands behind my back - you have to walk with them by your side. We still are not 100% sure if it is a good thing that this man has been raised to these heights and whether the country needs to move on but hey, as I said, without getting too deep and into the psychology of a country/region, it was a good hour or so!!! There have been loads of rumours about HCM fathering illegitimate children and the like - one tribal woman even disappeared in mysterious circumstances...

Onwards and upwards - water puppets tonight then Hong Kong tomorrow - our package has arrived in HK a day early so we're pretty excited now - in about 30 hours I will be getting my first taste of Walker's Salt and Vinegar for about 3 months which is the longest time period since I was about 4 years old...Jen has got Monster Munch Pickled Onion for her sins.

Tuesday, March 25, 2003

One more - Neil has come to the rescue again and we've got a package on it's way to us via DHL, thanks again - sorry we don't have any spare sevens tickets.... We're also sending a a parcel back with a load of stuff. There's pressies for both sets of parents and one for my brother as a way of saying thanks for the effort he's put into sorting eveything out. As a result we will have music (hopefully) again by Friday as he's repaired the MP3 player...yay!!
Just another thing - we're already missing James and Emily's, and Lou and Andy's weddings, but now we've heard that Paul - my mate from uni - and his other half, Naomi are tying the knot. Again, gutted we're mssing outbut best of luck to you both for the big day in July.
Nothing to report really - same same not different (SEA private joke) - The wicked witch of the North (Hanoi Hannah) is actually a really nice place - alot older feeling than HCMC mainly I guess because the Yanks didn't get this far north in the war. The people are much more persistent though and a couple of times yesterday I nearly lost my rag (Dan in shock horror temper losing outburst) but managed to control myself and walked away...it's just the way they hassle you...example conversation:

'Would you like to buy a book?'
'No'

'How about Two?'
'I'm not going to buy a book'

'A map?'
'No I've got one here already' (whilst showing him the map)

'Mine is better'
'No it isn't'

'Only 3 dollars'
'I'm not buying one'

'How much you pay?'
'Nothing'

(then I interject) 'Look we're not buying anything, please leave us alone so we can leave now and not get angry'
'Come on buy my map...'

Ad infinitum...and this happens literally dozens of times on your trekking around the City - really frustrating. Anyhow, rant over. Another thing, why is it that Germans have an aversion to cool winds...a couple of times on buses we've been asked to close the wondows (once by a bloke wearing a silk scarf - think it was messing with his hair or something - you do the math...) when there is no air-con and it is in the 30's and just now we;ve been asked to turn the fan off when it is again in the 30's in a poky little internet cafe...OK rant over, again and hey i've just turned the fan back on - what a rebel I am.

Tonight we might be meeting up with our old mates (of ooooh at least 3 weeks) Helen and Rich who are due back in Ha Noi. Just a small one tonight though as I still feel rougher than a roofer's glove. Tomorrow we're off to see the body ogf Ho Chi Minh which I would like to say should be alaugh but of course it won't. You are forbidden to speak/laugh/put hands in pockets/take photos - God what kind of tourist attraction is this?!??!

Tomorrow night we're going to The Water Puppets which Jen assures me will be fun - I always hated Punch and Judy as a kid so the jury's out on this one until tomorrow. Didn't get tickets for Beethoven last night - to be honest I would have got chucked out anyway as I spent most of the night hacking and coughing...

The day after is the flight to Hong Kong via Vietnam Airlines...should be a laugh, if the flight doesn't kill you off the flu will...then onto China and the Phillipines, two of the worlds most stable countries. On the way home we're going via Baghdad and Kabul to pick up some souvenirs.

Monday, March 24, 2003

The journey from Hoi Ann to Da Nang station was notable for one thing...the driver's music collection. We started with 'The London Boys' remember them? Who could forget....then 'The Pet Shop Boys' before descending into Sabrina - Boys Boys Boys...as I am sure most lads who grew up in the mid 80s Sabrina is well remembered for one (well two) things. And it isn't her voice...ahhh Sabrina thanks for the mammaries (ahem!)

Anyway - onto the station and the train - no hitches here, we got on the train and it was running about 15 minutes late - when we arrived in Ha Noi (some 15 hours later) we were 1 minute late - good driving Mr. (erm) Driver.

We had the two top bunks (they always sell these to foreigners as they are obviously worse than bottom ones in that they are a pain in the backside to get into...) whilst our travelling companions were a moody teenage girl who insisted on talking at 100 decibels and a chap I presumed to be her Grand-dad. He was well into his 80s/90s and I did seriously think he might croak in the night. Now being some of the first to book tickets we are always put at one end of the carriage which is great when getting on and off the train, but not so great when it comes to smell. You see the toilets are right next door. It was very difficult to determine last night where the smell was coming from (old man Vs. bogs) and it was pretty difficult to sleep with such a wonderful aroma coursing through the cabin.

Anyhow we arrived (at 5am) with me feeling even worse (coldwise) than I have - I got through 3 loo rolls worth of tissues in the night - and to compound matters our lift didn't turn up so we were stuck in (rainy) Ha Noi at 5am with no place to stay...however a young guy hauled us off to his guest house where we booked in after viewing the room. 10 minutes into what we'd planned to be a pretty long sleep we realised the whole room was incredibly damp and it was making my cold/chest etc... worse so we thought sod this, got up and went to see Uncle Ho at his mauseleum (opens at 8am). After walking about a mile (quite refreshing really - honest) we were told it was shut on Monday's...we should have read our guidebook.

We found a cafe where I had the most wonderful breakfast (Eggs Benedict with 3 - count 'em - poached eggs/Jen had beans on toast - they didn't have marmite - damn...) before we decided to change hotels as my cold isn't getting any better. We have decided to blow a bit of budget to stay in a quality hotel where the room has a heater and the bedding isn't damp so we've booked in at a really nice hotel (still cheap by Western prices but alot more than we have been paying...) We figure that we've got no accomodation costs for 4 days in Hong Kong so why not - I have to say our mid-afternoon sleep was wonderful and I feel quite a bit better.

The hotel is situated near the Opera House and we wondered by on our way into town...there is a performance of Beethoven's 9th tonight but it's sold out - we're going to try to see if there are any returns...any attempt at being cultured eh?

Just a short note as well - we've received loads of emails over the past few days - thanks for all of them - obviously we couldn't reply yesterday and we're struggling to get a fast connection today so we're planning on replying to all of them tomorrow, please don't think we're ignoring you...

Saturday, March 22, 2003

Our last night in Hoi An - got our suits and bags - all good stuff. Went to My Son - not particularly spectacular but looked good against the backdrop of the jungle, still it was an interesting couple of hours or so and worth the trip out. Most of the bigger, interesting towers were destroyed by the Yanks in the war...

On the health front, ear is fine (relief!) but I'm currently really bunged up with a godawful cold and am on a mega-dose of Penicillin again - trying to shift it before we hit Hong Kong. My brother finished our parcel land uploaded loads of stuff top the MP3 - unfortunatley the whole of Abba Gold amongst them...I had no say in that one. Have got the whole of the second series of The Office and Phoenix Nights so I'm pretty chuffed - cheers Pat.

We're off on a 15 hour train trip (and that's the quick train!) tomorrow - all the way up to Hanoi. Once again we're sharing a 4-berth with 2 complete strangers...should be in Hanoi for about 5am on Monday. We're booked into a guesthouse who, yet again, are picking us up from the station so should save hassle when we arrive.

Aside from My Son (pronounced Meee Sohn by the way not 'My Son' as in 'Alright My Son' cockney sparrar.....) have had a pretty chilled day and evening. Met an Aussie guy who's a sports nut so he's promised to take us to some rugby league/aussie rules when we arrive over there...

Friday, March 21, 2003

Never, under any circumstances, eat raw meat. Ever. Last night whilst feeling either particularly foolhardy or brave (depending on your point of view) I went for a starter I have always fancied but never eaten - Carpaccio of Beef. For the uninitiated this is basically a plate full of raw steak with tomato and cucumber in an olive oil dressing. It was lovely - the meat was tenderer than a number of steaks I had previously eaten. I topped the meal off with a fillet steak (+pepper sauce) and tiramisu. All was fine until this morning when you've guessed it I spent 20 minutes on the loo and well, without being too graphic, nothing was particularly solid. The problem of course was that we were due on a train at 5.30am so I stuffed myself full of immodium and got the lift to the station.

Miraculously things have got a little better and I have now gone a full 8 hours since needing the loo. Noodles and rice for tea it is then. The train was about 10 mins late - not bad for an 8 hour journey...we have arrived in Hoi An, which is the most wonderful place - full of tailors, craft shops, and genuinely friendly people. We are staying at another excpetional guesthouse. So far (in about 2 hours) we have bought 2 hats (the conical ones that you see in all the films - God we're such tourists...although it has to be said all the locals (women not men) wear them), 4 picturtes, 1 bag and a suit (with 2 pairs of trousers). The sum total of all this plus 2 taxis to and from the station is about 55 USD - BARGAIN!!! That's about 35 quid. To be honest they don't try to fleece you here either thery just ask a reasonable price straight away which means no need to haggle - what a refreshing change...it was getting a bit wearing haggling with everyone only to stop and realise you were getting shirty over about 20p!

We have sampled the local delicacy which for once wasn't 'fish's head on a bed of worms' or other similar stuff they've clearly made up just to feed the tourists...it was Cao Lau which is basically thick noodles (wholewheat - nice and healthy!) with pork and crispy (that's more like it - for crispy read lardy) wantons - almost a bit like pork scratchings. That cost 5000 VND - about 20p and was utterly fantastic and best of all - filling...

Tomorrow we're off to see My Son which is a collection of temples from the Cham dynesty and has nothing to do with me fathering any illegitimate Vietnamese sprogs. In the afternoon we are picking up my suit and Jen's embroidered bag before probably hitting the town - not sure if we can stomach it tonight. The train North is booked - we're a bit gutted that we're moving on from here so soon (Sunday) but we couldn't risk not getting a ticket Hanoi and we need to spend a few days there so hence the quick movement (insert your own diarrhea joke here...)

Thursday, March 20, 2003

First things first, the footy ended one all. Apparently we murdered them for an hour but when they equalized it was a backs to the wall scenario...honours even then.

Yesterday's diving was much better than we thought it would be. Nowehere near the marine life there was in Koh Tao (and it was 5 degrees cooler) but nowhere near as crowded underwater either and we had a number of things happen that hadn't before. We got to dive our first cave which was great fun - you kind of went in at the bottom and surfaced about 20 metres later towards the top - the pools of water where the rocks met water it looked like little pools of mercury and a number of smaller fish congregated here - I guess in order to shelter from predators. We saw a number of creatures that we hadn't seen before including a massive octopus and a cuttlefish that looked a bit like a hovercraft in motion.

Mid-way through the second dive Jen found what looks like a wedding ring - and the bloke must have extremely big fingers cos it's massive. It's got the words 18 Ct. stamped on the inside so we suspect it isn't. After establishing that no-one on the boat had lost a ring we decided to get it valued in Hong Kong (if we ever get there - the 'flu' thing has now killed 5) and if it's worth anything either sell it and spend the money on more dives/a dive computer or if it's worth nothing we're going to keep it as memoribilia...either way quite a find. We only did relatively shallow dives (to about 20 metres) and the good news is, that whilst my ear isn't perfect it seems to be better than before and will hopefully clear up in a couple of days...if not, well it's back to the hospital, but we don't think that'll be necessary this time.

The train tomorrow is at 05.30 ('and what's the O stand for - Oh my God it's early....'). We're staying in Hoi An for a couple of days before travelling up to our debarkation point - Hanoi. A couple of days there (which should be enough by all accounts) and then onto Hong Kong, although the sevens looks as though it may not happen this year as a number of teams are pulling out...would be gutted if that were the case as our tickets have now been bought and are stored in a safe place apparently!

Chest seems to be nearly better - not coughing up too much (sorry to much info...) and generally feel alot better.

See the war has started - I would say it's unbelieveable but it isn't of course...wonder how many innocent people will die this time - Bush should really go to the War Museum in HCMC - that may influence him. (Although with (an alledged) IQ of less than half that of his predecessor he might not be able to take it all on board...)

Tuesday, March 18, 2003

Quiet couple of days really - just relaxing and taking everything in. We've booked a days diving tomorrow, and also went to the bank this morning togetsome more dollars out. Should have enough out now to see us through to Hong Kong. We also booked ourselves a seat on the train north to Da Nang (oh Viva Da Nang...) on Friday from where we are going onto Hoi An.

We had a greatafternoon on the beach and went for a swim and a mess around ininner tubes...it was a full moon yesterday so the diving will probably be crap tomorrow...

Big grudge match tonight -Cambridge Vs Oxford and for once I'm not betting any money with my ex-boss over this one - I fully expect Oxford to win this one...although if Lorna reads this we definitely didn't have a 200 quid bet a couple of years ago eh Rob?

Chest is getting a little better, diving on a 15 litre tank tomorrow so that should give my lungs a good work out...quick shout to my brother who is currently updating our MP3 player and adding all the latest Phoenix Nights and Alan Partridge amongst other rubbish...he's also coming out for 6 weeks starting on 16th May and there is a possibility Rachel (Jen's sister) may come out (to visit us...) too...he's also sending us a parcel containing marmite/salt and vinegar crisps etc... first.


Monday, March 17, 2003

OK so there I was minding my own business in an internet cafe, sitting far enough behind Jen so I could have a conversation but also read the person next door's email (as you do...) when I saw her read the following story...I then thought about the fact I a) had a fever, b) was short of breath, c)was coughing like a bad'un, and d) the penicillin I had been taking for a couple of days hadn't had any impact at all...and put 2 and 2 together...

To cut a long story short we jumped in a taxi to Saigon general hospital's a&e and had the once over (to be safe). The doc was superb - and again we were in and out in 30 mins and spent about 15 quid and got 3 drugs. He said I only had a slight temperature, but that my throat was imflamed and my chest sounded a little wheezy but not too bad. He gave me (another) potent mixture of horse pills and we jumped on the train north to Nha Trang.

This morning we arrived about 30 mins or so late, after a very smooth journey on a much better slepper train than we get in Thailand. we shared our compartment with a couple of middle-aged Vietnamese who spoke fairly good pidgeon English and made it clear that they just wanted to sleep which suited us just fine! We have arrived at our hotel and we've got a lovely room away from the centre of town - and we've got a bath!! Not a small one, but a big corner bath at that...

We've spent the morning catching up on a bit of sleep and we've booked a day of diving with Jeremy Stein's Rainbow Divers for the day after tomorrow. Both really looking forward to it. Mr Stein's company seem to get everywhere - they are on nearly every hotel sign/billboard. This either means they are very good or he's got a massive ego. Or both.

Our first impressions of Nha Trang are really good - we were told it is over-developed and a nightmare, really busy, but we've seen about 20 people so far and no traffic, noise, or big high-rise...not sure if we got off at the right station in fact...This afternoon we're gonna spend some time at the beach reading and topping up our tan, before heading back to thte hotel. We met a few guys at the hotel who've been here a few days so they may well show us the sights tonight. One of them was born and bred in Glossop and his Mum still goes to the WI there...small world eh?

As for the weather - 'it's hot damn hot, real hot, hotter than the seat of my shorts...'

Sunday, March 16, 2003

OK - found one bad thing about HCMC - the computer just crashed when I was writing the last entry and I lost 30 mins work...ARSE.
Anyhoo, back to describing the last couple of days - you can tell when we're enjoying a city as we don't update this that often - we really love HCMC and will be really sad to leave - it is only the 3rd city we've felt this was about - the other 2 being Sihanoukville and Chiang Mai. Hopefully it'll be a case of 'We'll meet again don't know where don't know when...' (Sorry - wrong war...)

Yesterday we visited the tunnels at Cu Chi. Cu Chi is an area just north-west of HCMC where the Viet Cong built a series of tunnels and from these led the resistance to the Americans in the war. They have now built a replica of these tunnels, making them wider so you and I (and the Americans - ironically) can all now get inside and try to understand what life would be like. They were incredibly enterprising, with all manner of traps, smokeless chimneys, and small, camoflagued openings. It gave a fascinating insight, and our excellent guide adding fitting stories and anecdotes where appropriate.

We arrived back and promptly showered, changed and went out for the night. There were a couple of footy matches on, so we watched the first in the company of a Welsh couple who can only be described as utterly mad. However they were great company for the evening, and whilst Jen joined Sarah for pasta, I went for a curry with Colin.

Today we got up late (well 10.30am) and met up with our cyclo drivers from the other day who were to take us on a tour of Chinatown. It was fantastic! We saw a few pagaodas, and also went to the biggest market in HCMC. The sights and smells were fascinating and different to any other market we had visited. Some stalls had over 20 types of mushroom, other, herbal medicines it really was great fun to walk round for 30 mins or so. With it being a little off the beaten track as well there were very few Westerners so you got a real glimpse of the Vietnamese-Chinese culture. Wanting a souvenir of HCMC we decided to get a stamp made (rubber not postage) with our name on and the Vietnamese star in the centre. Now as a 4 year old Mrs. Schaniel told me my handwriting was poor, but until today it had never really cost me anything...(maybe a couple of dropped marks in English apart). Well today my utter inability to make a 'C' look like an 'L' made us Daniel & Jennifer Lornwell. However, when we pointed out the error (clearly mine) they added a top to the 'L' to kind of make it into a 'C'. Certainly unique!

We thanked our drivers by paying them (obviously) and buying them a couple of beers - they then said that they'd got a 4km ride home...I was knackered just sitting in the bloody things so God only knows how they felt. Cyclo Kim and Cyclo Hao - thank you - you were great guides (not that they'll ever read this...)

Back to 'Good Morning Vietnam' cafe tonight and then onto the train in a couple of hours or so...'it's hot, damn hot' so should be a 'fun' journey....although we're travelling in the best berth we can we still have to share it with 2 others....

We got an interesting email about diving in Nha Trang so w're almost certainly going to give it a go. Chest infection is not getting any better so upping the penicillin dosage tomorrow. It might just be the pollution as it is really bad here - looking forward to the beach!

Friday, March 14, 2003

'Good morning Vietnam, hey this is not a test, this is rock and roll, time to rock it from the delta to the DMZ....' [copyright Robin Williams (not to be confused with the maori-tattooed, chain-smoking, ex-drug addict, boyband chubster of similar nomcleture)]

Well we are in (Ohhhhh-eeeee-ohhhhh) Ho Chi Minh City - we've landed in Saigon - it is kinda between the Mekong Delta and the DMZ so hence the quote...the first of many no doubt as as a child myself, James, and Maaaaaaaaartin (private joke) Bamforth leant the soundtrack to 'Good Morning Vietnam' off by heart.

The first thing that hits you about HCMC place is the traffic. This is like Phnom Penh X 10. They have six (!) lanes on each roundabout (on the roundabout not on approach) for traffic... It is absolutely manic. Having said that the people are wonderful, very similar to Cambodians - trying to better themselves and sell you stuff, but very accepting if you decline. So far we have had a game of badminton with a couple of schoolgirls, and played keepy-uppy with the locals, great fun...even better after a couple of beers in fact. Last night we went to the best Italian restaurant in town called...wait for it...not 'La Dolce Vita', 'Pizzeria Firenze' or 'Papa Leone's' but...'Good Morning Vietnam'...oh the irony - at least it wasn't run by a Yank - that would have been too much irony to bear...

Our guesthouse is run by something of a local celebrity - Madam Cuc - and her family. A couple of the girls who run the place have nick-names me 'Happy Buddha' and love poking and prodding my stomach. I presumed this was just light hearted piss-taking but last night when questioned they said they liked by gut as 'the men don't have them over here'...FANTASTIC!!! It is by far the best guesthouse we have stayed in - they make everyone feel so welcome, and we've got air-con/fridge/TV for the same price as budget gueshouses.

Today we went to the Remnents War Museum - which used to be called the American and Chinese War Crimes Museum. The Vietnamese decided that might be a little off-putting to visitors of said countries so re-named it. It truely was harrowing - hundreds of pictures taken from the front line of the enormity of the Vietnam War. It was very one-sided - nothing said of the atrocities in the North of the country - but the images still shone through with real clarity and meant although the view gained was inbalanced you got a vivid understanding of the conflict. It was utterly horrific, and to think it looks as though we may be 10 days away from it happening all over again...what was that about mans inhumanity to man....??

We have been ferried around HCMC by a couple of guys on bikes with a kind of cradle like seat in the front (cyclos) who basically sided with the American's (as did most of the South) during the war, and thus, under the 're-education' programmes of the mid-70s lost their jobs and citezenship when the war finished - forcing them to live on the streets with no identity or benefits. They are not allowed in public buildings and effectively do not exist. There are rumours the government is trying to get rid of them altogether. Anyhoo, our guys were great, showing us the sights of parts we probably wouldn't have got to (backstreets etc...) en route to the railway station...

Now I don't know how much you know about queuing in Vietnam but it is more reminiscent of a 'bundle' at school, except this one is standing up at a kiosk. About 10 people basically form a scrum and whoever shouts the loudest, barges the most, and thrusts money towards the clerk gets served first...not one to miss an opportunity I decided to give it a go, held my own (you've got to remember not only am I wide out here but tall as well - they are all about 3 inches shorter than me) and got served at the exact point at which I entered the queue. I was pretty chuffed to be honest especially as all the signs were in Vietnamese and no English was spoken anywhere. What is even more of a miracle is that the tickets are the correct train, to the correct destination, on the correct day. I even got 2 top bunks!!! We're leaving here on Sunday to go north to the beach resort of Nha Trang where we hope to go diving if the visibility is OK - if not, we're in need of a bit of R & R after Laos so will be soaking up some rays for a couple of days.

Tomorrow we're off to the tunnels at Cu Chi - where the legendary resistence to the US Army was met, and (you've got Jen to thank for this little trip) we're off to to a multi-coloured church where they practice a religion that is a mixture of Buddhism, Christianity, and Confuscionism. What an eclectic mix.

Four other things of note...namely...

We received an email from someone who said reading this was like following a cult - I didn't have the heart to inform him of his mis-spelling. (boom boom!).

Secondly, we are now listed on google!!! If you go to google and type 'Dan Jen round the world' you will see our diary listed...no excuses from anyone now that you forgot the URL.

Thirdly, Jen is cutting my hair tonight, and we have agreed that if it is a mess I am going to shave my head. She is adament she'll do a good job...watch this space. [For some reason she believes trimming my sideburns once means she is now Nicky bloody Clarke]

Fourthly (and finally) - We spent 7 hours yesterday trying to sort our ticketing fiasco out. When we re-routed in the UK originally they should have re-issued a new set of tickets and only taken one out of our pack - instead they took 2 and didn't re-issue. Thus we had no flight coupon to exchange and it took BA 7 hours to sort it out yesterday. That said I don't want to bore you with the details but suffice to say we're now booked on the flight from HK to Manila on 14/4. We also booked and paid for our HK tickets and will arrive there on 27/3. When in HK we are staying with Nic, the French chap we met whilst trekking, and as a thank-you we have offered to cook old-fashioned English food for three nights (not broth and stuff, but shepherd's pie etc...) We are even having a ROAST DINNER...we're counting down the days. Hope you can buy chickens - if not it'll have to be roast cat.

Only joking Mum.

Tuesday, March 11, 2003

Piccie time!! First up - one picture for all the people we have met whilst travelling who we have bored to death about our dog - somehow we found a picture of him and Jen so here it is...bless him! Then next to it is us at the Chiang Mai Cookery School.



Next is the view over Chiang Mai (with us - obviously!) and us back in Bangkok on top of the 84-storey Bayoke tower which is the tallest hotel in the world.




Dan looking pensive at Buddha Park - on top of the weird pumpkin like structure (Vientiane - Laos), and the favoured mode of transport in Laos.




Just to prove it isn't all bars and beers (Lynn!) a couple of examples of the architecture. The golden one is the Sacred Stupa in Vientiane which is something of a national sybol for the Lao people. The other one is probably one of the nicest temples we have visited - it's the ones where the monks started 'Tum Tum Cheng-ing' at 3am and was about 100m from our guesthouse.



Finally Dan in a waterfall and the picture I have been waiting for since 4th November 1995. Jen in a curry house. Eating curry. Drinking beer!!!! AND ENJOYING IT!!!!!!!!!!



More after Vietnam....
We've booked out tickets outta Laos - flying from here to Bangkok (again...) and then onto Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) on the same day - 6 hours in transit. It was a special offer so cost less than the Vietnam Airlines flight which was on a prop plane via Phnom Penh anyhow. Today we're going to catch up on a few bits and bobs - internet banking, route for Vietnam, get cash advances from banks - that kinda thing, and then off tomorrow.

Monday, March 10, 2003

Well we're now back in Vientiane...what was wrong with Vang Vieng? (I hear you all cry) Well nothing really. It's just that all the activities we wanted to do, tubing, cycling, caving et al all require the weather to be nice, which, for the first time in 8 weeks, it wasn't. Jen described it as jumper weather and the temperature dial must have dipped below 20 degrees (ooh the hardship!) for the first time since we've been away. Thus we decided not to hang around as various people were muttering that once the weather's set it it's in for days or even weeks...

In Vang Vieng we went out with Helen and Rich for a really nice meal and a bottle of Lao Whiskey (and lots of 7-up) of dubious quality (but hey it cost about 80p!!!) and had a really nice night - we all discussed ways we could maybe do the overland Vietnam thing together but they want to go North to Luang Prabang first so we wouldn't be able to do it for a few days. We are now planning to fly (not via Lao Aviation but Vietnam Air) as soon as we can get a flight which should be tomorrow or the day after.

We are down to our last 20 bucks now (which is a little worrying) as all the banks are shut as it was national women's day on Saturday...and no I am not making this up (it is Monday after all and despite women being the fantastic creatures that they are their cause is surely not affected by closing banks???)

So that's about it really the reason we didn't get any sleep on our last night in LP was due to our guesthouse. It is called Tum Tum Cheng which is the sound monk's cymbals make in Laos. We were of course, staying near the oldest and most famous Wat (temple and monk-house - not Bob though) in Laos and Sunday morning seemed to be the time they practiced their Tum Tum Cheng-ing. At 3am.

So it's goodbye to Laos (soon) and hello to country number 4 - Vietnam. our plan here is vague, although we are going to bump into Helen & Rich, because as we go north they are going south and onward into Cambodia. We are trying to arrange this for Vietnam's only dive site. The rugby 7's is all (hopefully) booked although we're still waiting for confirmation. We fly into Hong Kong on 27/3 and out again on 14/4 which gives us a couple of weeks or so to whizz round China.

Not alot else to report - I've got a very mild throat/chest infection, which will hopefully sort itself out, if not we're going to wait for Vietnam as the hospitals here are some of the worst in the world apparently. If we can't get a flight we're gonna have to go on the nightbus - 12 hours of utter hell, followed by a 24 hour train in Vietnam...either way we'll keep you posted.


Sunday, March 09, 2003

Just time for a very quick one - we've arrived in Vang Vieng safe and sound after a poor night's sleep - that'll have to wait though as have met up with Helen and Rich and are off out for a beer or two and a nice meal. Hope you are all well.

If you haven't had a reply to an email you sent us please let us know as we have sent a few that we don't think have got through...and we have just about cleared our inbox now...

Saturday, March 08, 2003

Having a nightmare with flights...we'd just about decided on what we're doing for the next month or so when BA/Cathay Pacific decide to throw a spanner in the works by not being bloody contactable/not responding to emails/not having an office within about 1,000 miles...anyhoo we're gonna ring BA today to try to sort it...the basics are that we want to fly to Hong Kong from Vietnam via CP on 27/3 in order to get to HK for the rugby 7's (3 days). Then we either want to fly out of HK immediately (if we can't do the China thing for whatever reason) via CP to the Phillipines or Bangkok so we can get to some dive sites...having only taken one flight in Asia (we are entitled to 4 - the 4th is Singapore to Aus in May/June) we should be able to book them but CP haven't even responded to our email and BA have said they can't do anything online...Will update you when we have more news...

We went round Wat Xieng Thong today which was really beautiful, it is probably one of the most famous temples in Laos and has many wonderfully decorated walls and ornate buddhas. It was extremely peaceful, situated at the north end of LP away from the main streets.

Friday, March 07, 2003

Had a busy day today - went to the caves by boat - via (guess...) two craft markets. Bought my mum a pressie - mum you'll have to wait until we ship it back...we arrived at the caves (via a boat trip up the Mekong) before lunch and proceeded to climb an endless number of steps, but it was worth it for the view of the Mekong and a cave with literally thousands of Buddha images both painted on the walls and standing in the form of sculptures. It was both eerie yet serene and we had, luckily (well not luck - I'll let you guess who remembered to pack it...clue it wasn't me...) packed a torch.

An hour later we arrived back in LP in time to grab a quick lunch en route to the waterfalls. They are on about 4 tiers and have many little pools to swim in, so yours truely stripped off and did so, nearly losing his glasses in the process. Jen mumbled something about it being too cold and stayed on the sidelines (paddling). She has recorded the moment I swam under a waterfall for posterity so I am sure that photo will make it onto here some time.

Tomorrow is museum/wat/sunset up the big hill (Pousi hill) in the centre of Luang Prabang day. That aside we will probably have a lie in as we are knackered after our exertions today...

Thursday, March 06, 2003

Change of plans again (why do we always do this) we went even further north to Luang Prabang and have decided then to go back to VV/VTE en route to Vietnam - there was no option other than to double back on ourselves so we spent 9 hours on a non-air-con bus (although they said it was air-con). We went through the area where all those tourists/locals were killed without incident, there were Army guys with rifles peppered throughout the route. We did, however nearly have an accident on one of the hundreds of blind corners our driver took on the wrong side of the road. At 40 miles an hour. With a 500m drop the other side. This near-accident seemed to slow him down (for the next couple of bends at least) but it had jarred his gears to a point that the clutch no longer seemed to be working. Now there isn't alot between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang, certainly not a bus garage so when we glided to a halt I kind of thought we'd either have to hi-jack another bus (which were all packed - stuff on the roof, people standing etc...) or stay here for the night. After about 40 minutes of reading the headlines in my head...'Bus tour ends in disaster', 'Hmong rebels capture British tourists, ransome set at 50p' etc... the driver decided he'd go with the old addage 'If you can't find 'em, grind 'em' and thus he did. For 3 hours.

We eventually limped into LP one hour early - no I have no idea how he did it either...we trapsed around looking for a guesthouse but couldn't find one so opted for a hotel (!) which cost $35 a night - the most we'd paid so far - it was OK and we both got a cracking night's sleep. Needless to say we moved this morning and are now holed up in a fantastic little guesthouse near the quiet temple area.
We have spent some time getting our bearings today and are going to the caves and waterfall tomorrow before taking a day out around the Wats and museums the day after. The plan then is to go back to VV on Sunday where we will stay a few days. The trickiest thing at the moment is sorting the flight/bus/donkey to Vietnam. We have heard some horror stories about how the Laos/Viet bus trips are basically organised smuggling rackets so we have considered flying - only prob is that it is either via Lao Aviation - which doesn't publish it's safety record (!) - or Vietnam Airlines on a Fokker F-70....hmmmmm I quite fancy the drug-buses all of a sudden.

The latest plan is still to get up to China but we may come back via the Phillipines as a couple we met said they had heard of some great dive sites there (some fantastic WW II wrecks apparently) and we're both itching to get back in the water again.


Tuesday, March 04, 2003

OK - some news just in....we've booked our tickets out of here and are off up to Vang Vieng tomorrow (early - 6am start argh!!). It's kinda between VTE and Luang Prabang and it's the place yu can float on inner tubes...

Went for a fantastic meal tonight - a fiver for 3 beers, 2 Jen drinks and one BBQ (that you do yourselves at your table)...bargain...after we went to a shop that sold those sweets on a bracelet thingys...I think they're made in Buxton...fantastic. Still haven't found any salt and vinegar crisps though yet...


OK so 1st day in Vientiane was yesterday - we caught up on some sleep after our flight from BKK. First class was exceptional - how we wish we could afford those tickets all the time. We may well go on another Thai flight and the extra few quid was definitely well spent as we avoided all the queues, got served champagne (at 8.30am!), got breakfast, and even a free (well, erm, stolen) pen.

The airport isn't a million miles from the centre of Vientiane and we were picked up by our hotel which is always a bonus. The hotel was basically used by VIPs (that includes us then eh?) from the mid to late 70s (d'oh) and is austere but charming in a kind of slightly decaying sort of way. We've got an ensuite, a balcony, a bath and a telly (on which, rather frustratingly, the picture on the English sport/news channel is frozen - Greg Norman has, to date, taken over 14 hours to line up a 70 yard pitch and run...) and also hot running water. Can't quite figure the air-con though as it seems to have a mind of it's own.

Last night we stumbled upon a French restaurant, and feeling in the need for some really good grub we decided to splurge out. We had a starter each, a wonderful main (Jen said her rack of lamb in garlic sauce was one of the best things she had ever had in a restaurant), and shared profiteroles for pudding. It was devine. We also had a bottle of French wine too which was really nice despite costing more than all the food put together! We then went back to the hotel where we took over an hour to play one frame of snooker (you should see the size of the pockets, they're tiny, and as for the cues...) and because of excessive fouling on both sides the final score was something like 103-95 which must be nearly a record. I won, so I am sure to be challenged to a rematch tonight.

Today we went to see most of the sights of Vientiane - you're guessed it, more temples. To be fair these were different to other temples in that the stucco and buddha images where different, and also there was a real emphasis on wooden structures and lavish entrances. The most impressive were 'Buddha Park' which is an eclectic mix of both Hindu and Buddha images with the most weird but fascinating being a 40 foot tall pumpkin-like structure you can ascend (from within). It has three levls and a roof from which you can view the rest of the park. The 3 levels depict earth, heaven, and hell and were a bit spooky given they were enclosed inside the structure and thus you could only see the figures inside them by using a torch/camera flash. The other monument that stood out is the Pha That Luang - Great Sacred Stupa. It is a national symbol in Laos, and surely the only way to do it justice is to upload the piccies which we will due soon (hopefully). To briefly describe it though, it is basically about 70m square and is gold from top to bottom. It really is impressive.

We have decided that a couple of nights in Vientiane is probably enough so we're venturing north tomorrow - to Vang Vieng, which is en route to the northern capital - Luang Prabang. In VV we are really looking forward to the inner tubing, which is, not a medical operation, but, floating 8km down the Nam Song river on an inner tube. The locals pull you in every km or so for a drink at the bars that line the river. Sounds wonderful and we have heard so many other people go on about it, so we're really looking forward to it.

Well here we are in Laos (it does have the internet after all (yay) and running water, electricicty, hell we even found a jar of marmite in the shops last night). How would we describe our first impressions of Laos and the capital Vientiane. Well for a start it is only separated from Thailand by a river so you'd probably think that the Thai influence would be there for all to see, and I guess it is...although everthing is just that bit different. For example, the tuk-tuks are still 3 wheel but are bigger in the back and you can get 6 people in - they're called jumbo's. The mossies are 55 times the size and there are about 2 million more (they're more like mini-bats really). The beer is smoother and has lower alcohol content. The people smile and they mean it. Yup first impressions are great.

Although we have the internet it's like wading through treacle in wellies (not sticky but very slow) so we might take a while to reply to the emails (we had 10 in our inbox this morning). It's good to know that you're all well though and that there is some very interesting gossip (thanks Snowy!!) that I am thinking about publishing as I didn't like either party it involved...let's just say it involves 2 consultants at Michael Page (neither of whom I particularly liked) who are doing things they shouldn't...

In other news I have been phoned at around midnight the last 3 nights (from a Thai number) and then the other person has hung up - I have tried ringing them back but they don't speak English - bizarre. We can't register with any Laos phone companies (we're roaming on the Thai band still) so we'll lose reception for a few days starting tomorrow. The plan currently is to take the trip up to Vang Vieng and then up to Luang Probang before coming back south and visiting Savanaket before venturing into Vietnam.

Sunday, March 02, 2003

We're back in our favourite internet cafe, near our favourite guesthouse, in our favourite capital (well, favourite in Thailand). Yup back at Suk11 having slept in this morning and missed the floating nun and then travelled from Kanchanaburi to BKK via minibus. The driver was a complete headcase and thus we did the 180km trip in under 2 hours...

We met another couple who are doing pretty much the same route as us - they're from the UK too and we have swapped emails/diary addresses (although as they work in IT their's is all snazzy (what a fantastic 80s word - snazzy!!)) they're in Thailand for another few days or so but we will probably meet up with them in Laos/Vietnam/Oz/wherever. Their website can be viewed here. They also told us about the Qantas frequent flyer program that we forgot to join - d'oh...damn could have got some upgrades somewhere. Have obviously joined now and are trying to get our extra points added - this is surely doomed to failure...

Anyway off into BKK for some food then onto Laos tomorrow. Almost certainly no internet over there so may take us a while to respond but as before - keep the emails coming.

Happy birthday to Ken (my stepdad) who was 21 again yesterday and to my Mum who is the same age on the 4th. Jen's Mum's birthday is at the end of March (28th I think - Lynn??) so happy birthday to her too, although we should be able to update it before then. We have sent cards to all the above - hope you all receive them!!!


Saturday, March 01, 2003

The bridge over the River Kwai...constructed at the cost of over 100,000 lives at the hands of the Japanese Army. It is a pretty awe-inspiring site if slightly unspectacular, but really the gravity of the war conveys the message to most...except, bus loads (and I mean they even had a coach park for them - at least 10 buses) of yup, you've guessed it, JAPANESE TOURISTS...

It was a truely sickening site to see them clambering all over it for 'that picture for the top of the telly or the hallway', smiling inanly not stopping for a moment to think of the people that died and suffered in the building of this bridge. These same bussed in, bussed out 'tourists' where conspicuous in their absence from the beautifully maintained allied-war cemetaries and the museums dedicated to the memory of those brave POWs.

Anyway I've vented my spleen now, it's Saturday so off to get a footy fix and some nice Thai food (for a change)! Incidentally I had pie egg and chips for tea in an English restaurant last night - HEAVEN!!!We had tea with an Kiwi bloke called David (the 'youngest' 38 y.o. I have met), and an English girl called Ali (from Gloucs). They were both good company and we're meeting up with them again this evening. Dave is pending 3 months in SEA and it looks likely our paths may cross in Laos or Vietnam.

Back to BKK tomorrow after going to visit the floating nun in the morning (she's a local 'celebrity' who mediates in a large pool of water in a cave and she is meant to bring a kind of karma/peace to those who visit...)