I know we haven't updated this for a while but this is for a really good reason. Where we've been they don't have computers. It has been a very bad last couple of days...just to let you know neither of us is dead, or in any kind of trouble although on the former it was a close run thing, well kind of, hey you decide...

Sunday (wrote Mr. Kipling) was diving day - a trip to two of the best dive sites in the world - Hin Muang and Hin Daeng. We set off at 6.30 as planned and had a fairly basic but tasty breakfast consisting of, amongst other things, a rather grey looking egg. 'It'll be alright, it's hard-boiled'...famous last words? The sites themselves took four excrutiating hours to get to but were well worth the effort. Amazing untouched coral and shoals of fish the likes of which we had never seen before; jacks, trevallies, triggerfish, clownfish to name a few. The first site (Muang) is basically slap bang in the Gulf of Thailand and is completely submerged. There are drop-offs and vertical walls on each side that go down to 50-70m so you had to be careful that you kept at the right depth - didn't want decompression sickness and all that. Although the currents were really strong we managed to circumnavigate the rock and were follwed by the first friendly triggerfish I have ever seen - at one point I nearly swam into it, and rather than attack like usual it just swam past!!

During lunch the divers on another dive boat starting flipping out, some jumping overboard with snorkel and mask from the top deck - the cause of the consternation was what we'd all come to see - 5m Manta Rays. Although we didn't see one at lunchtime (too interested in the Thai green curry I'm afraid - too slow to get a look-in) we were hopeful we would get to on our dive. Hin Daeng is only about 30m from Muang and has a a pinnacle that is slightly above water and is a little more sheltered thus making it less 'curranty'. We entered the water into more and more fish, similar kinds to before. Again we were followed by the more inquisitive ones. No sign of the Mantas though. Ho Hum I thought - we never get to see the bloody big ones. And then it happened. A huge Manta swam from behind us, went over our heads and swam past. It was at least 4, if not 5m wide and it blocked the light out as it passed. It was a truely awsome and humbling sight and one we will never forget. On returning to the boat some 40 minutes later it appears of the 40 or so divers only 8 of us saw the Manta, so for once we were lucky. We then sat down and perused the pictures we had taken - the only one we managed to get of the Manta is slightly obscured by Jen's air bubbles, fancy breathing underwater eh?? It was then the first tragedy occured. My Osmond (house,I was in at school not 'Donny' or 'Family') rugby top, the one I've had since I was 13 was not clipped to the railings of the boat - someone unknown had hung it up, and as my Mum and Jen will tell you it wouldn't have been hung up by me, hell no it would have been safely crumpled on the deck - and it now resides somewhere in 70m in the Gulf of Thailand. I hope the Moray Eels and triggerfish are making a nice home out of it. Now this rugby top is something of a legend, I've even had a couple of emails from Uni friends who've said 'I can't believe you've still got that bloody top'. Well I haven't any more. GUTTED! My brother is, however, going to try to buy me another one when he visits Ely this week - it won't be the same though as they changed the style a few years back and the white collar is now blue, what a nightmare!! To top it all off my left ear went all dicky again and I started coughing up yellowish (well straw coloured) blood. Whilst not as bad as in Koh Tao it still hurt and I couldn't hear out of it at all.

I bet you're thinking, 'what's he moaning about - that's not a lot to go wrong - it's only a shirt', or - 'hey you've got two ears you know' etc etc...oh you just wait - it's just about to get interesting...

I awoke at 3.30 (am) - our ferry was at 8, so no need to be up so early. The reason for the premature alarm calls was, to put it bluntly, my bowels. They were just about to explode. Two minutes later they duly did, with the force akin to a B-52 over Bagdhad (SORRY...way too much information...). This continued for the next 4 hours. It was clear by this time there was no way we'd be travelling today. More worryingly I was now running something of a temperature and with all the fluid loss was badly dehydrated. We decided to get to a doctor's - the nearest one being only 10 minutes away (by motorbike - that was not a fun ride). To be honest I was not and am still notconvinced that chap we saw was a doctor, the thermometer he used showed 37.5 degrees, no problems I hear you cry, true, except it showed 37.5 before, dureing, and after I stuck it in my armpit, and also after we submerged it in a cup of boiling water. He would not accept it was broken though. Eventually we were referred to the Island's hospital where we were whisked (this time by pick-up truck) almost immediately. By this time I was more than a little delerious, the water I has tried to drink was going straight hrough me as were the rehydration salts. In the hospital they gave Jen the twelth degree about where we'd bee, what symptons I'd had etc...(we had mentioned we'd been in China 10 days ago to the health centre bloke when he asked) and we were immediately quarantined. They thought I had SARS. This is no word of a lie. Everyone donned masks, protective clothing, gloves, hair nets and they effectively shut down the part of the hospital we were in. The next 2 hours are a bit of a blur, among other things, I told Jen I wanted to se my brother and I was off to meet up with my Dad. I also thought we were on an aeroplane. My temperature was now at about 39 degrees C (102 + F for those of you still working in old money). This was further exacerbated by the fact they didn't have air-conditioning and we were entering the hottest part of the day - 40 degrees outside. After Jen had told them of all our movements (literally everything, down to guesthouses stayed in, room number et al) from the last 4 weeks the decision was made to transfer us to quarantine at Krabi (the province capital) Hospital where we would have our own room and would be more comfortable. They also had the capability to do a chest X-ray, which I was told I needed. All worrying stuff. Their evidence, they believed, pointed to SARS; been in China within 14 days, high fever, acute diarrhea, strugling to catch a full breath (trust me so would you in 40 degree heat). On the positive side I didn't have a cough or sore throat, and hell, here I am writing this two days later...;) At around 1pm our 'ambulance' arrived. Think pick-up truck with stretcher in the back and you're closer. The doctor (who was amazing - I do remember this fact) was clearly not impressed and ordered them send another one, which arrived about half an hour later. It was a little, although not alot, better. At least this one had somewhere for Jen to sit and a drip stand. What was to follow was truely horrific, an 80km ride mostly on dust tracks done in under an hour and a half. This included two ferry rides too. We believe he was travelling at an average of around 60-70 mph. When he did stop (for the ferries) he got out and had great pleasure in telling everyone that would listen about the two 'farang' SARS victims in his ambulance. Everyone he did so started covering their faces and moving away from the trucks. (At last we'd found away to keep the Thais from selling stuff to you...)

By the time we reached Krabi hospital I was so weak I couldn't stand-up and was slipping in and out of consciousness (well sleep really I guess but consciousness sounds more dramatic). I also felt as if my internals organs had become detached due to the bumping up and down - fortunately I was wrong about this. The stool tests were showing the presence of bacteria, but they still went ahead with the x-ray. This came back negative for pneumonia (thank God), as we expected. However we were still quarantined and it took another full day for my fever to drop. We spent Monday and Tuesday night in Hospital (Jen slept on the sofabed - the room was better than some hotels we'd stayed in - air-con, TV (with sport channels), Western not squat toilet) and finally were allowed to leave today. The diagnosis - acute food poisoning, possibly salmonella, possibly from chicken or eggs. Hmmmmmm... We rang the dive company and they said no-one else had been ill so unless they were better liars than George Galloway (not hard to be fair) we are at a loss as to where I got it from. I guess it could have come from the sea as I did swallow quite a bit of sea water at some point. Either way, things are nearly back to normal now and we've finally arrived on Phi Phi.

A couple of things came to our mind about the whole thing really, namely:
How efficient and professional the Thai healthcare professionals are in the main, although their 'tools' to do the job are nowhere near as sophisticated as elsewhere in the world.
How seriously they are taking the threat of SARS.
How much of a nutter the ambulance driver was. It would have been far less of a surprise if we'd died in an RTA on the way to the hospital than of SARS/food poisoning etc...now wouldn't that have been a perfectly ironic way to go!!??

We have finally met up with Helen and Rich (3 days late). They are off on a yacht for a week tomorrow so we've had a spot of lunch and no doubt we'll go out tonight (Jen and Helen are currently sunning themselves on the beach). Their trip sounds tremendous and we are more than a bit envious - seems we might have missed the boat on that one - ha ha. We may meet up with them in Malaysia but will almost certainly do so in Aus/New Zealand and South America - their website is here for those who haven't seen it. You can't look at Rich's diary without a login - let us know if you want one - I'm sure we can email you ours!!! (It's so they don't get listed on Google etc...) We have gone for relative luxury although it's within budget (bonus!!) and we're right on the beach. We're staying at the PP Princess which was recommended to us by another couple we met (Hi Derm and Teri) in Krabi. No idea how long we're going to stay here. We're half thinking of doing a similar trip to H & R (basicaly yachting/fishing/snorkelling around the smaller Thai islands until you hit Malaysia) but we're conscious we need to be back in BKK by the 3rd May and we haven't booked any planes, trains or automobiles yet. Phi Phi looks great so we'll almost certainly be here 2 or 3 days. We might then head to Phuket before grabbing a cheap (20 quid!!) flight to Penang. We are keen to dive again and as my ear seems to have pretty much righted itself this is a distinct possibility.

We have had shedloads (over 30) emails in the last 3 days and we haven't been able to reply to any - SORRY! We will hopefully do so this weekend if (and when) we hit Phuket. The connection here is so slow it takes about 3 minutes to load each page.

Just a note to my Mum - I am OK Mum don't worry about it - I haven't got SARS - I am OK - just to reasure you!!

Not loads to report really. For some reason we slept in til Midday, had some lunch, walked down the beach and then promptly slept until 5pm. No idea why this happened but it did. Just hit town for a bite to eat before an early night as we're up at 6am for tomorrow's diving.

The MP3 player seems to be mended again...this was just one part of why yesterday was such a good day. Firstly we arrived at our accomodation after a 2 hour boat trip - the air-con even worked on the ferry so that was a bonus. Our guesthouse is lovely, they're really friendly and the room is cheap - 600B (9 quid) a night. We're on the beach and less than 1 Km from the main town. Koh Lanata is great, really laid back, quite underdeveloped and a bit similar to Koh Chang - except we didn't like it there...ant infestation in our toilet is anyone remembers back to January, we're struggling to...

We also found an English 'pub' last night that serves, homemade quiche (yes I know that's not strictly very English), fish and chips and other Western goodies. He even does a Ploughman's - his next shipment of Branston arrives today so we'll be back tonight or tomorrow no doubt - Jen has booked us in for Sunday lunch on, Sunday (duh!) We watched Man U Vs Arsenal, as live, and as we didn't know the score it made for a great evening. We also managed to book some diving for today - more of that in a bit. The sites we really wanted to go to (Hin Deang and Hin Mueng) are being dived on Sunday so we'll have to stay until then. We've booked our tickets for the ferry on Monday so we'll arrive in Phi Phi for about 10am.

Today was diving again and we had a blast. You'll all be pleased to know that our new dive computer worked well and we got a lovely readout at the end telling us time in water (54 mins for dive 2), max depth (28m) and water temperature (31 degrees!!!!!) - NICE!
The first dive was OK - but the second was something else...apart from seeing the usual marine life close up, schools of small fish and some larger ones (sorry still don't know most of the names) we also saw a massive Moray Eel and an Octupus that even waved at us before swimming off. The highlight of the second dive was the opportunity to swim into a cave where you could then swim up into a cavern with an air pocket. There were hundreds of Stalagtites (mites go up tites come down...) and we got the opportunity to take our masks off and have a good 5 mins looking round - it was kind of eerie but great fun.

We have booked in to do some more dives on Sunday - Hin Muang and Hin Deang are two of the best sites in the world and we are hoping to catch a glimpse of our first shark (leopard and whale) or one of the many 5 metre Manta Rays.

We have had an email today from Helen and Rich (Hi both - glad you're enjoying Suk 11) letting us know they'll be on Phi Phi from Sunday so hopefully we can hook up on Monday for some beers and dive on Tuesday/Wednesday I guess. We haven't really got much of a clue what we're doing after Phi-Phi - probably Phuket (Jen wants to find a matching elephant carving for the one we bought 2 years ago) followed by the trip back to Bangkok in readiness for the arrival of my brother - 4th May. We have got to get Visa extensions somehow so we should hit BKK on or around the 2nd.

Today we did nothing, well really we did nothing as in we did a little this a little that. It was bliss.

Jen dropped our recently mended MP3 player which is now officially broken again. Don't think her dropping it had much to do with it as we got a different error message but either way we're both pretty peeved as we'd just got used to having music again...ho hum.

Met a couple staying at our hotel who have lived in Thailand. She is a teacher, and he has recently managed the powering of the metro construction in Bangkok. Coincidentally we ate at the same place tonight and shared a couple of stories. They're off to Phi Phi the day after tomorrow and are going to advise us of good dive sites etc...we're going to do the same for Koh Lanta.

I bought a dive computer (the cheapest decent one we could find as money is obviously tight) and a little slate thing that you can write on underwater. That means the last nag-free refuge has now gone...only joking dear.

Kayaking hurts. Not just your arms but your whole body. Yes your arms hurt after all the kayaking motion, but your back also hurts when you forget to add sunscreen and your legs hurt where you forget to add insect repellent. Hohum. Despite all the above we've had a great day getting tanned (read burnt) and kayaked round a whole island semmingly the size of the Isle of Man, but probably more the size of a traffic island. We also managed to cram in some snorkelling and fed the fish all the leftover dinner which they gobbled up. It was a bit of a dry run (there's a misnomer if ever I heard one) for Jen's new camera case which worked a treat. We're well and truely knackered so we're off for some food and then bed - it's hard work this holidaying malarky.

Just had tea at a wonderful Mexican, our first night has been lovely - Krabi seems really quiet at the moment. The reort area has a great balance between enough civilisation to get you through without being over-developed. We've hatched a bit of a plan for the next few weeks that should take us through to Aus, we're going to have to miss out Malaysia as we don't think we could do it justice in the 3 days we would have there.

The main reason for coming back tonight is to say CONGRATULATIONS to Angie (Jen's best mate) who completed the London Marathon in a staggering 4 1/2 hours and finished in 3,620th place. Bloody impressive, well done but I bet you ache like hell today!

We are now on another beach, well not on a beach, in an internet cafe near a beach but you know what I mean. Today is purely R & R, but tomorrow we are off kayaking amongst the limstone Karsts. Should be fun. Wednesday is a beach day and Thursday is the day we travel to Koh Lanta. We will be there for a few days + possibly doing a dive or two before heading to Phi Phi to meet up (hopefully) with Helen and Rich who are currently in Siem Reap.

Just trying to sort an itinery for my brother`s visit in May. At the moment it stands at a couple of days in BKK, followed by some diving. This will mean we have to get an extension to our visa so we are about to go and look into that.

The Songkram festival, for those that don't know, is the Thai New Year although their year date still goes forward one year on Jan 1st - confused? We were. The festival takes place from 13-15th April every year and the city of smiles (and traffic) becomes one of utter utter chaos. Originally, in years gone by, Songkram marked the opportunity for the devout Buddhist population to 'cleanse' the spirit of the old year by pouring water over themselves and their family. Indeed it is seen as a time when all families in Thailand get together and even the traffic in Bangkok subsides.

Feeling brave or foolhardy we decided to venture out in the midday sun to Khao Sarn Rd - the backpacker strip we usually avoid. As this is near the Grand Palace and temple area it is the scene of most of the wild behaviour. The sight that greeted us was one of complete mayhem. The street was teaming with hundreds if not thousands of people of all ages and nationalities, Thais mixing with the Westerners. For once in this area the latter were in the minority. The pavements were lined with water sellers and again the prices were standard for Westerners and Thais. There were hosepipes for refilling and tens of water-pistol vendors. The Thais also had some sort of paste - bit like a flour and water combo - which they spread over any part of your anatomy they could get hold of. Jen remarked she had never been touched by so many men in such a short space of time - well quite! Armed with some of Adam's ale and a double-barrelled pump-action Kalashnikov of a 'pistol' we ventured forth. How to describe the next 2 hours - carnage. Not alot else fits the bill word-wise really. Water comes at you from all angles, when we re-filled (and were, thus, stationary) was the worst time as water would come at you from everyone and everywhere - regularly a couple of pints (complete with ice cubes) would go down your back/over your head. It was really interesting to watch a number of Westerners who delighted in standing in the periphery and just shooting people but complaining when they got hit...that's how not to play this game. The walk down the road was incredibly good natured and many 'Happy Songkram's were exchanged along with the obligitory paste. Without doubt, the funniest sight of the day was a backpacker who had obviously not heard of the festival who pitched up at the wrong end (where all the crowds were) of KSR. As soon as she left her taxi looking for cheap accomodation (we didn't tell her all the guesthouses were closed - that would have spoiled the fun) she was descended upon by about 20 people and within a couple of minutes, her, her backpacks (front (does that make it a frontpack?) and back) all her clothes and everything she was carrying (including guidebook) were drenched - welcome to Thailand!!

Despite looking like a couple of extras from Waterworld (not exactly Kevin Costner's finest hour - not sure it had any flour paste scenes though to be honest) we managed to flag a tuk-tuk down and made it back to the hotel to change before venturing out (with a fresh set of dry clothes) for lunch. On our way we asked not to be soaked and the Thai's were very gracious and didn't throw anything at us, unsurprisingly the only guys who refused were a couple of typical drunk 'Brits abroad' who, despite Jen explaining the situation, soaked her then me. She said something to them I can't repeat on here and I followed up with a similar expletive whilst throwing the remnents of my bottle of (drinking) water in one of their faces. For once I seemed to get the last laugh as I knocked his shades off and they fell on the floor, hopefully getting scratched in the process. We decided to stay at the hostel tonight as a) we're running out of clothes and b) if those dickheads we saw earlier were anything to go by, a little testosterone and alot of beer will probably not mix well with water and paste and I imagine a load of Westerners will probably end up in some kind of fight. I can understand when the Thai press is so critical of how the festival has been turned into a glorified water fight. That said we enjoyed ourselves, and our overriding memory will be of the friendly greetings and warmth in the Thais' smiles...before they attempted to drown us!!

We fly to Krabi on yet more discounted tickets tomorrow - 8.05 flight so another early flight - we've managed to book 3 nights for the price of 2 at a really nice sounding resort. We might dive in Krabi but in all honesty we will probably save that for Koh Lanta in a week or so. I am sure we will continue to get soaked tomorrow. Just to be on the safe side we have paid for a taxi to pick us up at the airport as we didn't feel like braving the songthaew in Krabi as they are open and you're a moving target, albeit a relatively fast moving one.

Back on familiar ground, in familiar surroundings, on a patch we almost know as our second home - yup it's Thailand, Bangkok, Suk11 all over again. Plane journey was unsurprisingly empty, less than a hundred on a plane built for 260. Before boarding the plane we had lunch and spent a couple of hours with a Dutch couple who'd been living in Didsbury for the last 3 years, they have already been to South America and promised to help us out with any questions...in exchange we told them all we could remember about South East Asia - their next destination. Their plane to Singapore was even emptier than ours - 46 passengers, tourism is definitely not booming here at the moment.

On board everyone (including all staff) wore masks and we did so for the first time, figuring it would be easier to clear customs/immigration in Bagkok if we complied. I felt like I was about to enter an Altern 8 gig. The scene on arrival was one of (dis)organised chaos, half the Chinese hadn't filled in their obligatory health survey forms (to be fair it was in English and Thai script only - no Chinese characters) and thus there was huge confusion about who went where etc...eventually we found the right queue, were quizzed about our health, and had our temperature taken (Jen's was 36.5 - a degree lower than she should be!) and after passing through about 50 health officials in full surgical gear we were allowed into the reclaimation area.

So what to do in Bangkok? We're shipping another load of stuff, bought in China, back (we owe you some serious beer Neil) including Panbada who has become something of a mascot, but is a little cumbersome to lug round with us. It is Songkram (sp?) here which is Thai New Year. Basically it's an excuse for a huge water fight and tourists are the main target - I already got soaked last night, a day early - I must have a particularly irritating 'I'm a tourist come soak me' face, or I might just have looked like an American. Whatever happens it should be fun. Jen has vowed to win her pool crown back tonight so we will have to see. At this point I need to point out that when in Laos I lost rather spectacularly to a Swedish guy who Jen then promptly went and beat - she believes this makes her better than me at pool and has been nagging me to write it on here for ages. So there we go, happy now??!!

We have put our visit to the weekend market on hold until the weekend of my bro's arrival (May 3rd/4th) as most of the stalls won't be there anyway this weekend. After this we're not 100% sure of what we're doing - we got an email from Helen and Rich who have also decided against HK and The Philippines/Indonesia and are now going South through Thailand via some diving. They should be back in Thailand around 20th April and I think we're going to meet up and 'do' Phi Phi. With this is mind we will probably stay a couple of nights in Krabi (we fly on Monday) before taking the boat to Koh Lanta - another undeveloped island where you can also dive. this should mean we arrive in Phi Phi at roughly the same time as them.

PICTURES TIME!!!

These go way back to Vietnam which is about a month ago. First up we have Jen in the 'tourist' tunnels at Cu Chi and Dan on a cyclo in Chinatown - both Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). Apologies for the quality on some of these - the picture editing programme we've been using is a bit poor.



The actual tunnels (very few tourists can fit in them!) at Cu Chi and us relaxing in a bar in Nha Trang



A typical Vietnamese fishing boat in Hoi Ann, and us at the big lake in Ha Noi



Us at the rugby sevens in Hong Kong with our wonderful hosts Karina and Nicolas, and us at the Forbidden City in Beijing



The Great wall and a couple of tourists, and then on it's own



Jen on the Great Wall, followed by the Summer Palace, Beijing



Dan on pedalo at Summer Palace lake, and the Temple of Heaven - both Beijing



Kite flying in Beijing, a girl in traditional Chinese dress in Xi'an



Us at the Terracotta Warriors, and some warriors with heads, some without



One of the restored bronze chariots at the warriors, Xi'an; Panda sanctuary, Chengdu



The Grand Buddha with yet another couple of bloody tourists; the Buddha in all it's glory



As we've bought an underwater case for Jen's camera we should have some great pictures of underwater life for you next - hopefully it'll be sharks and rays not little cleaner and parrot fish...

Just to tie up the panda place - we bought by far the greatest piece of tourist tat so far at this esteemed spot (it was absolutely wonderful by the way) - a walking panda that not only has flashing eyes but also plays the lambada as it moves - uitterly compelling. We've called it (wait for it) Panbada - original huh!

Quite alot has happened in the last few days so take a seat and buckle up - this could take some time. We went on our second organised tour yesterday - to the biggest Buddha in the world, the Great Buddha at Leshan. It is over 70m tall and stands on the riverbank. To get the best view you can take the speedboat and take pictures from the river. After walking about a mile and a half around the complex this was a pretty enjoyable way to make our way back, even if the driver thought he was a James Bond baddie and kept making tight turns and laughing maniacally.It was an enjoyable day, spent in the company of the same people we went to the panda institute with - yet more Aussies and a couple of Brits. We felt it was time for a night out so at around 8pm we all gathered at 'The House of Union' which is basically a few sofas, and a fridge on the riverfront. It's very 'backpackery' but a really good place to chill and swap stories, and of course, sample a little of the local ale. It was a motley crew (no bad poodle perms on show here though) of people; obviously Jen and myself, Luke (the most bearded man on earth, and at 5 ft 11 and a half he's a real gentle giant) and Flic (another dentist - God can you imagine the conversations her and Jen had about root canals etc...), Carolyn (Aussie who joined our 'group' yesterday), and Paul (Barnsley fan with great music taste) and Dave (PhD in Physics - the brains of the operations - much dodgier taste in music, which included some Chinese alternative stuff...). We spent a good few hours just having a great time and then walked the half mile or so back to the hotel. The now obligatory exchange of emails and a promise to meet up in Aus then occured. We have also met a couple of great Kiwis who are on the final leg of their year out. Having previously been living and working in Hong Kong, Sally and Richard are returning to NZ after Richard was made redundant last year. Again, we're keen to meet up with them when we hit Wellington some time in August.

The flight situation has resolved itself but only after we've forked out 350 quid for flights to Bangkok. We were basically in a no win situation, BA would/could/whatever only re-route us out of Beijing to Sydney as a result of us being unable to travel to Hong Kong. They also wanted us to pay (!) for this riveledge despite having already paid for 2 re-routes that we now couldn't use. We still haven't had a reply to the email we sent 10 days ago...very very disappointing. We're flying from Chengdu to Bangkok with Thai Airways and, unsurprisingly, when I contacted them to change the date of our flight to Krabi they did so within 3 minutes and said we could pick up our tickets at the airport - FREE OF CHARGE. If anyone at BA ever reads this you could go some way to sorting your appalling customer service out by looking at how Thai do things, quickly, efficiently, and always with a smile. RANT OVER (again).

So, onto Bangkok for, I think, the 7th time now in total - although once we didn't leave the airport. Hopefully staying at our fave place but they haven't come back to us yet so we're a bit nervous about having to stay with the hippies on Koh Sarn Rd. We should be in Bangkok for the Songkran festival where everyone has a massive water fight apparently - something to do with cleansing the spirits from the previous year. Wish I had the double-barrelled pump action water pistol I bought whilst still a student.

After this back to the beaches - we're hoping to get some diving in before the monsoon season hits the West coast.

The panda research and breeding centre was really good. They had baby pandas and older pandas in large areas with trees they can climb, and they were contained not by fences but small moats they can not climb through. We had a photo or two taken with a panda a bit touristy but good no the less. Their fur was quite coarse not like cotton wool as I expected (Jennifer's writing this). It was a really good mornings trip.
Tomorrow we are off to a cooking course and a cultural show.
There a a few traumas as regard travel restrictions that have now been put in place, the insurance will not cover us if we travel to Hong Kong so we cant, but they will not cover the cost of the ticket we have already bought, and will not pay for us to fly out any other way. Ho Hum as Dan would say.

Have arrived safely in Chengdu - got a lovely room in a fantastic place - I think we're gonna like it here. Off to the pandas tomorrow, and then to the Grand Buddha, probably the day after. We are now thinking about continuing our tour north and 'flying in the face' of the SARS. We cannot get a refund for our Shanghai tickets, and thus we're thinking it might be better to carry on the same route. Gonna have to stock up on those masks...

The Yangtze Cruise is very expensive but you are aboard for 2/3 nights so although it looks alot you get your accomodation - the choice we have now is whether to do the locals or the foreigners boat - so a boat full of Chinese (generally friendly but spit alot) or Japanese/German/Spanish et al....hmmmm what a choice. Off out to try some Sichuan food now which is about the spiciest in the world by all accounts...you're meant to drink peanut and walnut milk to help sooth - this could be a fun night, can't be a big one though - off to the pandas at 7.30 A.M. ARGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now you know I said our room was a dump, well let me just quantify that a little...

The toilet pipes leak, so much that there is no water in the cistern. I only discovered this after a trip to the local watering hole when I was bursting to use said utility.
The room stinks and hadn't (judging by stray hairs everywhere) been swept since the last Ming dynesty.
The duvets smell of bonfires/urine/stray dogs.
There is a massive hole in the wall where the heating (that no longer works) exploded and caused a small fire.
It is damp.

Apart from this, it's the bloody Ritz. Anyhow after noting most of the complaints last night we were disappointed surprised (but not astonished) to find the room hadn't even been touched on our return. After trying to get some shut-eye but realising it wasn't going to happen I finally lost my rag and went to have a real go at them. They moved us at pace and our new room is somewhat better although still less than salubrious. Anyhow onto today....

Receiving our discounted air tickets we have found we're not flying with China Southern as discussed but Hainan airlines who look decidly dodgier - but hey I'm not scared of flying any more - honest...the ticket was less than 30 quid - a bargain given that the train is 27! They also booked us onto todays tour but we needed five people to go so it wasn't until 10.45 this morning (an hour and 15 late) that we finally departed...we were not impressed...

HOWEVER - the tour more than surpassed our expectations and for 10 quid, including all transport, an English speaking guide, and all entrance fees you really couldn't complain. Incidentally although the guide had leant English at university (and his grasp was pretty good) all he learnt about 'pop' culture was from the tourists he took round, so hence he thought (genuinely) that we all had afternoon tea, knew the queen, and wore bowler hats...very amusing. Quick first stop was the North Wall and Gate (Xi'an) where we bought a couple of mini-terracotta-warriors. We then went to a silk farm where I tie-dyed Jen a silk scarf, it's come out pretty well too...we also bought a pressie for Jen's sister (will be shipped from BKK Rachel next week hopefully) and a piece of slik carpetting. A good 1/2 days purchasing...

Then onto yet another tour highlight - the Terracotta Warriors. The first great bit of news was that we could take photos and we both did, despite my camera being on the blink (for the second time ince I bought it...) thinking of ditching it if we can't get it repaired cheaply in BKK. The Warriors themselves had been destroyed by a peasant uprising in about 300 BC. They were originally set in battle formation around Emperor Qin's tomb and there was approxinately 6,000 plus. Of these about 2,000 have been excavated and restored. There are many different types of figures, ranging from infantrymen to archers, generals to lower ranking officers, and there were even a number of horses (their wooden chariots long since gone). It is an amazing sight although it is a little disappointing that you have to view from a gallery rather than get 'amongst' them. There were another couple of pits they are still excavating in, a film and a short 'history of the site' exhibition. There was also 2 sets of 4 bronze horses/chariots that have been meticulously restored and are now on display. We finished the tour with a trip to the mausoleum (read big mound of earth) where we got some great views of the surrounding area.

It was another of the days we'll remember long into our old age - something to tell the grand-children we keep saying...hmmmm, little worrying that. Onto Chengdu and the pandas tomorrow, let's hope they don't sell the funniest and most bizarre souvenir we have seen so far - an electronic cuddly panda that walks back and forth whilst playing the lambada...hahaha

We've arrived safely in Xi'an and have also arrived at the worst hostel we've ever stayed at although the staff are friendly enough...think of Bradford/Hull and Peterborough and multiply by 1,000 for badness and you're not even close. Jen has continued her adventurous eating streak by trying something esle she never has before - a 'Big Mac'. Quite a delicacy out here...the plan is to stay here for a couple of days - go to see the Terracotta Warriors and then head down to Chengdu - we're having a hell of a time cancelling the flight from Shanghai - pretty sure we wouldn't if we weren't foreign but hey...at the moment they're telling us we need to go nack to where we purchased them (Hong Kong), even though (and catch this for irony) the whole reason that we're no longer need the tickets from Shanghai to Shenzhen is that we can no longer fly out of HK...

That aside nice to see you are all writing getting your own back for when we've posted 'it's 35 degrees here' etc... by telling us all about the UK weather. It's 10 degrees here (if that) and raining - you know that really fine drizzle that soaks you to the bone... Had the best meal yet last night (not at McDonalds) at our hotel - 8 quid for 3 chinese courses and a couple of drinks - magnificent...

Quite a busy couple of days - with weary legs we decided to have a bit of a lay-in (are you detecting a pattern yet?) but made it to Liu Luang for the afternoon. This is basically one long street full of olden-style shops, it was a real relief from the concrete jungle of Beijing and we spent at least a couple of hours browsing the stalls. Following some good natured bargaining we managed to acquire a Mah Jong set, two seals (of the ink/wax variety not furry club-able creatures) with our names on (one for Jen with a dragon on it (her birth year) and mine had a rabbit...hmmmm no comments around appropriateness.....(I'll get a slap for that!)), a painting and a small magnified micro-picture - kind of like the 'your name on a grain of rice'... With all the SARS worries and everything we thought we'd get the painting of the old man representing longevity...oh the irony...

Last night we went for a drink and meal at the Belgium bar we went to before and struck up a conversation with a couple of Spaniards (their best mate who arrived later was called Manuel - no kidding...he wasn't from Barcelona though...) who seemed like a great laugh - Jen got on really well with Sandra whilst I spent my time with John (he was born in London hence John not Juan...) All was going swimmingly until the topic of 'The War' cropped up and this guy starting talking out of his large Spanish arse. 'The war is justified' 'Saddam Hussein is worse than Hitler' 'Bush is an excellent President' etc etc...to compound matters on further probing the war was justified solely because they control the 2nd largest reserves of oil in the world and it shouldn't be under their control who gets it, no mentions of anything else - just oil. Needless to say he's not on our Christmas card list and his better half (who apologised for him about 30 times) kept giving him worse and worse looks as the night went on...let's hope when they got back to the flat she dumped him - unlikely but would make a great end to the story. Either way as I said Jen and Sandra got on really well and we're destined to meet up in Madrid on our final leg sometime in December/January. Let's hope Senor Ignorant isn't around...

This morning - none the worse for our debate last night - we arose relatively early and made a trip to The Summer Palace. This was the place where the Emperors and their hangers-on (concubines/eunachs et al) retired in the Summer (duh!) when it was too hot to be in the city. It is spread over about 20 square kilometres and is capped by a magnificent lake and a huge temple that is built on the cliffs above it. Again, the architecture is exceptional and all the long corridors and ceilings are covered in ornate patterns and pictures depicting the Ming and Qing reigns. Never ones to shirk a challenge we decided to hire a pedalo and duely, er, pedalo-ed around the lake - no mean feat given that it's about 3 Km long/wide and we only had an hour. For some reason Jen seemed better at the peddling aspect whereas I was clearly the better 'steerer'...

Our final port of call in Beijing was The Temple of Heaven Park, in which is the temple you'll see on jars of Tiger Balm and thousands of other products. Again, absolutely magnificent and worth a couple of hours of anyone's time.

After arriving back at the hotel we have spent a couple of hours sorting through all the photos from the past 4 weeks but, alas, they don't have an imaging program here so we can't resize them and upload them - hopefully they will in our next destination. We are on the move again tomorrow - a flight to Xi'an, which is most famous as being the home to the Terracotta Warriers, which again should mean a fantastic few days.

No or little news as yet on the SARS situation in HK from the Foreign Office so we're going to have to wait before deciding on where to go from Xi'an. Another option we are considering is to fly from Chengdu to Bangkok via Thai Airways rather than return to HK. This would enable us to get to Leshan (the Big Buddha) and to go to the Panda Sancturay (just outside Chengdu) but would mean we'd have to miss the Yangtze cruise. To date everyone we've spoken to said the water has risen too much already and the cruise isn't worth the considerable outlay...

Great meal on Tuesday at the Passby and hey, I even resisted the urge to do an April Fools on here - couldn't think of one I hadn't done before...

Yesterday was our first real taste of Beijing. We had a bit of a lay-in before catching a cab to that tourist haunt - Tiananmen Square. Again, no tanks or demonstators so we carrie don our journey to the Forbidden City via a bank and about 35 subway tunnels. Bizarre Chinese moment number 1 occured at the entrance where a young couple who spoke no English came up to us motioning they wanted to take a photo, so I offered to take theirs but it soon became apparent they wanted us to be in their photo...surreal but obviously we agreed and gave a cheesy grin even Tony Blair would have been proud of, although at least mine was genuine.

The Forbidden City is the area of Beijing where the emporers, their concubines and their eunachs (interesting combination) used to live. It is basically a series of impressive, if austere, buildings that have been rebuilt on a about 5 occasions due to being made of wood. The Chinese do like smooking, fireworks, and inscense so I'm not surprised they burnt down to be honest. Rather than hire a guide we hired James Bond to show us round. Unfortunately it wasn't Sean Connery, or even Pierce Brosnan, but old 'eyebrow raiser' himself - Roger Moore (better than George Lazenby or Tim Dalton though I guess.....) As he's getting alittle old now we had to do with a tape recording but it was a fine accompanyment to the trip. The best bit was definitely when he described how one of the emporors 'ever-indulged' with the members of his harem and had a fatal heart-attack - I could see that eyebrow wiggling for all it's worth!! Met a nice Scottish guy and a couple of Aussies who, as expected, took the piss out of our inability to play any sport we've invented, I countered with my usual retort about ther Ashes - well at least you'l lnever get your hands on them, they're too fragile to travel...it always shuts 'em up for some reason.

On our way out of the Forbidden City we were accosted my a 50-something gent trying to get us on a trip to the Great Wall. After much haggling we agreed a price, but only if he threw in a couple of tombs too. Just under 30 quid for a full days excursion for tomorrow. We have chosen an area described by the lonely planet as 'a genuine wall experience' but also 'steep and crumbling'. should be fun. Following on from the Forbidden City we visited the Bell and Drum towers and had pretty good panoramic views of Bejing, unfortunately I wasn't allowed to play with the drums or the bells, spoilsports...

Dinner was after a couple of pints of Guiness (brewed in Malaysia bizarrely enough) in the most authentic Irish Bar this side of, er, Moscow. Hey it was so realistic there was even a drunk Irishman stood ordering whiskeys at the bar. We had pizza at a Belgian bar (?) before retiring for the evening.

So onto today which we hoped would surely be one of the highlights of our year - we were not to be let down. Despite our driver getting a parking ticket (for 20 quid meaning he'd make about a 10 quid loss on the day - oooops) he was resonably efficient although we arrived at the Wall via a couple of other places. One planned, one just utterly bizarre. The bizarre one was first - a kind of Madame Tussaud's (no we don't have wax fetishes) but this time there were loads of figures on display - none of them purporting to be real people either. There were about 15 exhibits depicting scenes from the last 800 years of Chinese history except none of them tallied up to the description. The big irony here, of course, is they looked more life-like than Uncle Ho earlier last week. It was also pretty bizarre to see a huge stuffed giraffe in one of them - probably slipped into the wrong exhibit - should have been at the nearby 'Noah's Ark' collection.

The Ming tomb was 'pleasant' enough, thank God they didn't see fit to display the remains at this mauseleum. He'd been dead 700 years. Then onward to the only man-made structure visible from space.

Richard Nixon sure was right (see previous post) although I will add more hyperbole by saying 'it is utterly amazing'!! Arriving at HuangHua we spent 2 hours climbing up 70 degree angles with no hand-rails, the best of it being we were the only tourists and even the postcard sellers left you alone to climb. It really is as it looks in all the pictures, in fact no, that's unfair, it is more spectacular, more scerene, yet it dominates the skyline and is incredibly demanding of those who choose to climb it. Thoroughly exhilerated we took tens of pictures before the hazardous descent and our trip back to the hotel. Just like visiting Angkor and the first time we had 30m visibility whilst diving it was a real defining moment on the trip for us and one that will live long in the memory.

This evening we were feeling pretty brave so we went for a Chinese in a Chinese. We had duck, pork, cabbage... in fact way too much for even me. The bill came to about 8 quid (hey I even asked for the bill in Mandarin and they understood me!!) and was as good as any Chinese food we've ever tasted. DELICIOUS!

We've had a few emails about this SARS thing so we thought it might be a good idea to contact our insurers to see what their take on it all is. We were mainly interested if they would pay out if we had to re-route if the government issued a health warning not to travel to Hong Kong or Gouangdong region (we fly back to here from Shanghai on 20/4 before flying out from HK the next day). The answer was a resounding 'no' and hey, if the government issue a travel warning and we decided to travel and we then require medical treatment they won't pay for that either. We are going to get to Zi'an and keep monitoring the situation but one of the things we are thinking about is cancelling our tickets from Shanghai and flying back to Chiang Mai from Xi'an to then go overland into southern Thailand. This would be a shame but if the government/foreign office does issue this warning we can't really risk going back. Also coupled with the fact that the Thai authorities are currently quarantining anyone with symptons from HK and making everyone from there wear masks (or face 6 months in jail - I kid you not!) we mayt have no options - I don't want to look like Michael Bloody Jackson.

Beijing, City of the 2008 Olympics, site of one of man's greatest achievements - The Great Wall, and home to, yet another, appalling British Airways Office. Another 2 1/2 hours to re-route - another charge (for doing nothing) and to top it off an additional 15 quid each just for the priviledge of being in China - welcome to the Communist (read Capitalist) state of China...anyhoo have written to BA about their appalling inconsistent customer service and should get some sort of response so will keep you informed.

RANT OVER. OK, well it's snowing here and it must be just about 0 degrees - a bit of a change from Hong Kong. We have booked our tickets onwards to Thailand (see above) and managed to get a really good deal on a flight to Krabi (worth noting we were in the Thai Airways office for less than 10 minutes) at under 40 UKP - the train is over 20 UKP and takes 15 hours...so we'll be back on the beach on 22nd April (we don't arrive until 6pm on 21st...) and should be diving by...oooh...the 23rd...

Last night we went for Peking Duck in, erm, Peking (Beijing's old name) and it was lovely, although very fatty. It tasted just like it does at a Chinese back home ;) although the Hoi Sin sauce was a bit dodgy and there was no cucumber...there are so many fantastic looking restaurants here but so few have English menu I will probably end up with one of the local delicacies (stir-fried tripe with kidney and heart...) or some meat that I really shouldn't eat...cat/dog etc...we're going to try one tonight especially as I now officially speak the lingo...

Tried my linguistic skills out on a taxi driver today and we nearly got to our destination before his engine blew up (quite spectacularly) and we had to push him...at least he didn't charge us. I must have been particularly good in the next one as the bloke started chatting to me as if I spoke the language...I just shrugged my shoulders, laughed, said, 'over there' and we arrived home safely...

Still got to book our tour to the Great Wall, which we will try to do tomorrow. We're hiring a couple of bikes tomorrow to go around the Forbidden City and to find a bloody tour company!! One thing that is interesting is that the Chinese Government just shut internet cafes (over 6000 were closed last year) and all the ones listed in the Lonely Planet are now not there (they've disappeared just like that bloke in 1989 - I'm writing this from the hotel). There is only one left in the whole of Beijing apparently (although we find this a little unlikely) and it is, I kid you not, in a gay bar! Maybe they don't think the gay community has it in them to revolt??!! Crazy crazy place - yet again you couldn't make it up... The Government also bans sites of a political nature so although we can edit our blog we can't view it...must have been my criticism of the NHS earlier this year - sorry Tony. We also can't view BBC news websites either and the press here is unbelieveably controlled - despite SARS fever (sorry poor pun) in Hong Kong (500+ cases now?) it wasn't even mentioned in the Chinese dailies...

Oh well, better sign off as it's pricey here; thinking about the placard tonight but don't fancy getting incarcerated/shot/squashed by a tank - if you read this please think twice about travelling on the one world ticket - it is truely awful and nowhere near as easy and flexible as they make out when you book it.

BA - the ball is in your court and we await your reply...

OK First thing. We're not dead. Nor have we been in a plane crash or got the flu (well it's got an incubation period of 5-10 days so I guess we could have...) we've just been away from the internet and enjoying life! Incidentally we were both really impressed with China Southern who we flew with today - new planes, food was OK and the air hostesses were alot better looking than the Vietnam ones.

Hong Kong was great fun and our host, Nicolas, is an absolute star, a real trooper! We went to the rugby 3 days in a row and, hey, England won the final - Nicolas even politely applauded our victory which is no mean feat as he is French. En route (like the French?)to the final we beat Australia and, one of the favourites, Fiji, so beating New Zealand for our second consecutive win was all the more sweet. On top of that we then went back into town last night to watch England stuff Ireland - a great weekend was had by all (although Jen has stated on at least 30 occasions she never wants to see men with funny shaped balls again...(the old ones are the...oldest...)

So - to Beijing where we've already been to Tiananmen square where we were promptly shouted at and asked to leave by some scary looking Chinese Military types, not being ones to argue and remembering 1989 (and all that...) we duely obliged...it turns out they were kind of closing it off for the night...weird really to see this huge open place completely deserted at 8pm...incidentally (again) we might have got away with it and could have stayed there longer if Jen hadn't said 'let's follow them' when said scary blokes starting marching towards one end of the square...

We've got 6 days in Beijing before we head to Xi'an (terracotta warriors) and then onto the Yangtze and beyond...we have looked into cruises on the Yangtze and the cheapest we can find (for 3 nights with an English speaking guide) is 280 USD PER PERSON...we might be kayaking and camping at this rate.

In our 6 days here we've got loads to pack in, with, of course, trips to the great wall ("It sure is a great wall" - Richard Nixon, President of the USA 1972), the Forbidden City, and the Summer Palace amongst others. We are struggling to fit it all in. As per previous post we are now missing out the Phillipines and have thus re-routed via Bangkok which means another trip to British Airways tomorrow - if this one takes another seven hours I will take to Tiananmen Square myself tomorrow night with a placard demonstrating against British Airways...(didn't see any tanks today so I might be alright...)

We've had a squillion emails (well about 15) so apologies for being crap and not replying, we will do, without fail, tomorrow as soon as we find a decent connection in the City as the one at the hotel is a tad pricey...

On our final night in Vietnam we went to the Water Puppets which was absolutely enchanting (God I sound like a travel writer, which I suppose ironically I now am...) although the music was a little draining after a while. Still definitely worth seeing if you've got an hour to spare in Ha Noi. Jen left her jumper there and amazingly it was still there an hour after the show...

The flight (via Vietnam Airlines) was really smooth in a (relatively) new Airbus, I even enjoyed it a bit although I'm not getting carried away and applying for my pilots license just yet...

Leaving Vietnam we were very sad to be honest - we really enjoyed everywhere we went although we've heard some real horror stories particularly from Helen and Rich who keep getting scammed...we didn't manage to meet up with them in the end...if you read this guys - hope Hoi Ann/Nha Trang/HCMC are better than the rest of Vietnam...you're gonna love Cambodia though.

We've found the quickest connection in the world - Hong Kong. This place is everything Vietnam isn't. Clean, structured, EXPENSIVE!!! We found a pub last night that sold Boddies on tap and Smirnoff Ice and although it was over 3 quid a pint it was worth it! We've applied for our China Visa (should pick up tomorrow) and also ordered an underwater camera case for Jen's camera - which was the only cheap thing we found - about half the price than the same one in the UK...

This whole place is a little crazy at the moment due to the flu outbreak - every other person is wearing a face mask although they take it off to eat/smoke/talk etc...It was very amusing when visiting McDonalds to see everyone tucking into Big Macs with the face mask off - Ronald must have some secret flu-busting formula so you can't get infected there (only by BSE of course (alledgedly)).

Our host (with the most) Nicolas who we met trekking has been exceptionally kind - even allowing us to sleep on his bed whilst he sleeps in a sleeping bag on his living room floor...we took him and his girlfriend (Karina) out for a meal last night as a way of saying thanks. He works some crazy Michael-Page-esque hours - 8-7ish every day - even Friday...

The 7s starts tonight at 5pm our time (we are now 8 hours ahead of the UK) and England are second up against Singapore - should be a laugh...

Last (but not least) happy birthday to Lynn, who is, 21 today which means she had Jen when she was minus 6.

Our visit to Madame Tussaud's (sorry, Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum - but hey we were both pretty sure it's a waxwork) was interesting for the fact that a) we weren't sure if it was a waxwork or not as it looked almost too (sur)real, b) it was interesting to see the massive presidential palace that this communist leader (some are more equal...) definitely did not live in - he lived in a little 3 roomed house on stilts, and only used the palace 'for entertaining'. Presumably he entertained these people with boiled rice and bowls of noodle soup and definitiely not smoked salmon and chateuaneuf-du-pape.

Despite leaving this world in 1969 he is obviously still held in very high regard - it was almost like a pilgrimage to a holy site, I even got told off for having my hands behind my back - you have to walk with them by your side. We still are not 100% sure if it is a good thing that this man has been raised to these heights and whether the country needs to move on but hey, as I said, without getting too deep and into the psychology of a country/region, it was a good hour or so!!! There have been loads of rumours about HCM fathering illegitimate children and the like - one tribal woman even disappeared in mysterious circumstances...

Onwards and upwards - water puppets tonight then Hong Kong tomorrow - our package has arrived in HK a day early so we're pretty excited now - in about 30 hours I will be getting my first taste of Walker's Salt and Vinegar for about 3 months which is the longest time period since I was about 4 years old...Jen has got Monster Munch Pickled Onion for her sins.

One more - Neil has come to the rescue again and we've got a package on it's way to us via DHL, thanks again - sorry we don't have any spare sevens tickets.... We're also sending a a parcel back with a load of stuff. There's pressies for both sets of parents and one for my brother as a way of saying thanks for the effort he's put into sorting eveything out. As a result we will have music (hopefully) again by Friday as he's repaired the MP3 player...yay!!

Just another thing - we're already missing James and Emily's, and Lou and Andy's weddings, but now we've heard that Paul - my mate from uni - and his other half, Naomi are tying the knot. Again, gutted we're mssing outbut best of luck to you both for the big day in July.

Nothing to report really - same same not different (SEA private joke) - The wicked witch of the North (Hanoi Hannah) is actually a really nice place - alot older feeling than HCMC mainly I guess because the Yanks didn't get this far north in the war. The people are much more persistent though and a couple of times yesterday I nearly lost my rag (Dan in shock horror temper losing outburst) but managed to control myself and walked away...it's just the way they hassle you...example conversation:

'Would you like to buy a book?'
'No'

'How about Two?'
'I'm not going to buy a book'

'A map?'
'No I've got one here already' (whilst showing him the map)

'Mine is better'
'No it isn't'

'Only 3 dollars'
'I'm not buying one'

'How much you pay?'
'Nothing'

(then I interject) 'Look we're not buying anything, please leave us alone so we can leave now and not get angry'
'Come on buy my map...'

Ad infinitum...and this happens literally dozens of times on your trekking around the City - really frustrating. Anyhow, rant over. Another thing, why is it that Germans have an aversion to cool winds...a couple of times on buses we've been asked to close the wondows (once by a bloke wearing a silk scarf - think it was messing with his hair or something - you do the math...) when there is no air-con and it is in the 30's and just now we;ve been asked to turn the fan off when it is again in the 30's in a poky little internet cafe...OK rant over, again and hey i've just turned the fan back on - what a rebel I am.

Tonight we might be meeting up with our old mates (of ooooh at least 3 weeks) Helen and Rich who are due back in Ha Noi. Just a small one tonight though as I still feel rougher than a roofer's glove. Tomorrow we're off to see the body ogf Ho Chi Minh which I would like to say should be alaugh but of course it won't. You are forbidden to speak/laugh/put hands in pockets/take photos - God what kind of tourist attraction is this?!??!

Tomorrow night we're going to The Water Puppets which Jen assures me will be fun - I always hated Punch and Judy as a kid so the jury's out on this one until tomorrow. Didn't get tickets for Beethoven last night - to be honest I would have got chucked out anyway as I spent most of the night hacking and coughing...

The day after is the flight to Hong Kong via Vietnam Airlines...should be a laugh, if the flight doesn't kill you off the flu will...then onto China and the Phillipines, two of the worlds most stable countries. On the way home we're going via Baghdad and Kabul to pick up some souvenirs.

The journey from Hoi Ann to Da Nang station was notable for one thing...the driver's music collection. We started with 'The London Boys' remember them? Who could forget....then 'The Pet Shop Boys' before descending into Sabrina - Boys Boys Boys...as I am sure most lads who grew up in the mid 80s Sabrina is well remembered for one (well two) things. And it isn't her voice...ahhh Sabrina thanks for the mammaries (ahem!)

Anyway - onto the station and the train - no hitches here, we got on the train and it was running about 15 minutes late - when we arrived in Ha Noi (some 15 hours later) we were 1 minute late - good driving Mr. (erm) Driver.

We had the two top bunks (they always sell these to foreigners as they are obviously worse than bottom ones in that they are a pain in the backside to get into...) whilst our travelling companions were a moody teenage girl who insisted on talking at 100 decibels and a chap I presumed to be her Grand-dad. He was well into his 80s/90s and I did seriously think he might croak in the night. Now being some of the first to book tickets we are always put at one end of the carriage which is great when getting on and off the train, but not so great when it comes to smell. You see the toilets are right next door. It was very difficult to determine last night where the smell was coming from (old man Vs. bogs) and it was pretty difficult to sleep with such a wonderful aroma coursing through the cabin.

Anyhow we arrived (at 5am) with me feeling even worse (coldwise) than I have - I got through 3 loo rolls worth of tissues in the night - and to compound matters our lift didn't turn up so we were stuck in (rainy) Ha Noi at 5am with no place to stay...however a young guy hauled us off to his guest house where we booked in after viewing the room. 10 minutes into what we'd planned to be a pretty long sleep we realised the whole room was incredibly damp and it was making my cold/chest etc... worse so we thought sod this, got up and went to see Uncle Ho at his mauseleum (opens at 8am). After walking about a mile (quite refreshing really - honest) we were told it was shut on Monday's...we should have read our guidebook.

We found a cafe where I had the most wonderful breakfast (Eggs Benedict with 3 - count 'em - poached eggs/Jen had beans on toast - they didn't have marmite - damn...) before we decided to change hotels as my cold isn't getting any better. We have decided to blow a bit of budget to stay in a quality hotel where the room has a heater and the bedding isn't damp so we've booked in at a really nice hotel (still cheap by Western prices but alot more than we have been paying...) We figure that we've got no accomodation costs for 4 days in Hong Kong so why not - I have to say our mid-afternoon sleep was wonderful and I feel quite a bit better.

The hotel is situated near the Opera House and we wondered by on our way into town...there is a performance of Beethoven's 9th tonight but it's sold out - we're going to try to see if there are any returns...any attempt at being cultured eh?

Just a short note as well - we've received loads of emails over the past few days - thanks for all of them - obviously we couldn't reply yesterday and we're struggling to get a fast connection today so we're planning on replying to all of them tomorrow, please don't think we're ignoring you...

Our last night in Hoi An - got our suits and bags - all good stuff. Went to My Son - not particularly spectacular but looked good against the backdrop of the jungle, still it was an interesting couple of hours or so and worth the trip out. Most of the bigger, interesting towers were destroyed by the Yanks in the war...

On the health front, ear is fine (relief!) but I'm currently really bunged up with a godawful cold and am on a mega-dose of Penicillin again - trying to shift it before we hit Hong Kong. My brother finished our parcel land uploaded loads of stuff top the MP3 - unfortunatley the whole of Abba Gold amongst them...I had no say in that one. Have got the whole of the second series of The Office and Phoenix Nights so I'm pretty chuffed - cheers Pat.

We're off on a 15 hour train trip (and that's the quick train!) tomorrow - all the way up to Hanoi. Once again we're sharing a 4-berth with 2 complete strangers...should be in Hanoi for about 5am on Monday. We're booked into a guesthouse who, yet again, are picking us up from the station so should save hassle when we arrive.

Aside from My Son (pronounced Meee Sohn by the way not 'My Son' as in 'Alright My Son' cockney sparrar.....) have had a pretty chilled day and evening. Met an Aussie guy who's a sports nut so he's promised to take us to some rugby league/aussie rules when we arrive over there...

Never, under any circumstances, eat raw meat. Ever. Last night whilst feeling either particularly foolhardy or brave (depending on your point of view) I went for a starter I have always fancied but never eaten - Carpaccio of Beef. For the uninitiated this is basically a plate full of raw steak with tomato and cucumber in an olive oil dressing. It was lovely - the meat was tenderer than a number of steaks I had previously eaten. I topped the meal off with a fillet steak (+pepper sauce) and tiramisu. All was fine until this morning when you've guessed it I spent 20 minutes on the loo and well, without being too graphic, nothing was particularly solid. The problem of course was that we were due on a train at 5.30am so I stuffed myself full of immodium and got the lift to the station.

Miraculously things have got a little better and I have now gone a full 8 hours since needing the loo. Noodles and rice for tea it is then. The train was about 10 mins late - not bad for an 8 hour journey...we have arrived in Hoi An, which is the most wonderful place - full of tailors, craft shops, and genuinely friendly people. We are staying at another excpetional guesthouse. So far (in about 2 hours) we have bought 2 hats (the conical ones that you see in all the films - God we're such tourists...although it has to be said all the locals (women not men) wear them), 4 picturtes, 1 bag and a suit (with 2 pairs of trousers). The sum total of all this plus 2 taxis to and from the station is about 55 USD - BARGAIN!!! That's about 35 quid. To be honest they don't try to fleece you here either thery just ask a reasonable price straight away which means no need to haggle - what a refreshing change...it was getting a bit wearing haggling with everyone only to stop and realise you were getting shirty over about 20p!

We have sampled the local delicacy which for once wasn't 'fish's head on a bed of worms' or other similar stuff they've clearly made up just to feed the tourists...it was Cao Lau which is basically thick noodles (wholewheat - nice and healthy!) with pork and crispy (that's more like it - for crispy read lardy) wantons - almost a bit like pork scratchings. That cost 5000 VND - about 20p and was utterly fantastic and best of all - filling...

Tomorrow we're off to see My Son which is a collection of temples from the Cham dynesty and has nothing to do with me fathering any illegitimate Vietnamese sprogs. In the afternoon we are picking up my suit and Jen's embroidered bag before probably hitting the town - not sure if we can stomach it tonight. The train North is booked - we're a bit gutted that we're moving on from here so soon (Sunday) but we couldn't risk not getting a ticket Hanoi and we need to spend a few days there so hence the quick movement (insert your own diarrhea joke here...)

First things first, the footy ended one all. Apparently we murdered them for an hour but when they equalized it was a backs to the wall scenario...honours even then.

Yesterday's diving was much better than we thought it would be. Nowehere near the marine life there was in Koh Tao (and it was 5 degrees cooler) but nowhere near as crowded underwater either and we had a number of things happen that hadn't before. We got to dive our first cave which was great fun - you kind of went in at the bottom and surfaced about 20 metres later towards the top - the pools of water where the rocks met water it looked like little pools of mercury and a number of smaller fish congregated here - I guess in order to shelter from predators. We saw a number of creatures that we hadn't seen before including a massive octopus and a cuttlefish that looked a bit like a hovercraft in motion.

Mid-way through the second dive Jen found what looks like a wedding ring - and the bloke must have extremely big fingers cos it's massive. It's got the words 18 Ct. stamped on the inside so we suspect it isn't. After establishing that no-one on the boat had lost a ring we decided to get it valued in Hong Kong (if we ever get there - the 'flu' thing has now killed 5) and if it's worth anything either sell it and spend the money on more dives/a dive computer or if it's worth nothing we're going to keep it as memoribilia...either way quite a find. We only did relatively shallow dives (to about 20 metres) and the good news is, that whilst my ear isn't perfect it seems to be better than before and will hopefully clear up in a couple of days...if not, well it's back to the hospital, but we don't think that'll be necessary this time.

The train tomorrow is at 05.30 ('and what's the O stand for - Oh my God it's early....'). We're staying in Hoi An for a couple of days before travelling up to our debarkation point - Hanoi. A couple of days there (which should be enough by all accounts) and then onto Hong Kong, although the sevens looks as though it may not happen this year as a number of teams are pulling out...would be gutted if that were the case as our tickets have now been bought and are stored in a safe place apparently!

Chest seems to be nearly better - not coughing up too much (sorry to much info...) and generally feel alot better.

See the war has started - I would say it's unbelieveable but it isn't of course...wonder how many innocent people will die this time - Bush should really go to the War Museum in HCMC - that may influence him. (Although with (an alledged) IQ of less than half that of his predecessor he might not be able to take it all on board...)

Quiet couple of days really - just relaxing and taking everything in. We've booked a days diving tomorrow, and also went to the bank this morning togetsome more dollars out. Should have enough out now to see us through to Hong Kong. We also booked ourselves a seat on the train north to Da Nang (oh Viva Da Nang...) on Friday from where we are going onto Hoi An.

We had a greatafternoon on the beach and went for a swim and a mess around ininner tubes...it was a full moon yesterday so the diving will probably be crap tomorrow...

Big grudge match tonight -Cambridge Vs Oxford and for once I'm not betting any money with my ex-boss over this one - I fully expect Oxford to win this one...although if Lorna reads this we definitely didn't have a 200 quid bet a couple of years ago eh Rob?

Chest is getting a little better, diving on a 15 litre tank tomorrow so that should give my lungs a good work out...quick shout to my brother who is currently updating our MP3 player and adding all the latest Phoenix Nights and Alan Partridge amongst other rubbish...he's also coming out for 6 weeks starting on 16th May and there is a possibility Rachel (Jen's sister) may come out (to visit us...) too...he's also sending us a parcel containing marmite/salt and vinegar crisps etc... first.

OK so there I was minding my own business in an internet cafe, sitting far enough behind Jen so I could have a conversation but also read the person next door's email (as you do...) when I saw her read the following story...I then thought about the fact I a) had a fever, b) was short of breath, c)was coughing like a bad'un, and d) the penicillin I had been taking for a couple of days hadn't had any impact at all...and put 2 and 2 together...

To cut a long story short we jumped in a taxi to Saigon general hospital's a&e and had the once over (to be safe). The doc was superb - and again we were in and out in 30 mins and spent about 15 quid and got 3 drugs. He said I only had a slight temperature, but that my throat was imflamed and my chest sounded a little wheezy but not too bad. He gave me (another) potent mixture of horse pills and we jumped on the train north to Nha Trang.

This morning we arrived about 30 mins or so late, after a very smooth journey on a much better slepper train than we get in Thailand. we shared our compartment with a couple of middle-aged Vietnamese who spoke fairly good pidgeon English and made it clear that they just wanted to sleep which suited us just fine! We have arrived at our hotel and we've got a lovely room away from the centre of town - and we've got a bath!! Not a small one, but a big corner bath at that...

We've spent the morning catching up on a bit of sleep and we've booked a day of diving with Jeremy Stein's Rainbow Divers for the day after tomorrow. Both really looking forward to it. Mr Stein's company seem to get everywhere - they are on nearly every hotel sign/billboard. This either means they are very good or he's got a massive ego. Or both.

Our first impressions of Nha Trang are really good - we were told it is over-developed and a nightmare, really busy, but we've seen about 20 people so far and no traffic, noise, or big high-rise...not sure if we got off at the right station in fact...This afternoon we're gonna spend some time at the beach reading and topping up our tan, before heading back to thte hotel. We met a few guys at the hotel who've been here a few days so they may well show us the sights tonight. One of them was born and bred in Glossop and his Mum still goes to the WI there...small world eh?

As for the weather - 'it's hot damn hot, real hot, hotter than the seat of my shorts...'

OK - found one bad thing about HCMC - the computer just crashed when I was writing the last entry and I lost 30 mins work...ARSE.
Anyhoo, back to describing the last couple of days - you can tell when we're enjoying a city as we don't update this that often - we really love HCMC and will be really sad to leave - it is only the 3rd city we've felt this was about - the other 2 being Sihanoukville and Chiang Mai. Hopefully it'll be a case of 'We'll meet again don't know where don't know when...' (Sorry - wrong war...)

Yesterday we visited the tunnels at Cu Chi. Cu Chi is an area just north-west of HCMC where the Viet Cong built a series of tunnels and from these led the resistance to the Americans in the war. They have now built a replica of these tunnels, making them wider so you and I (and the Americans - ironically) can all now get inside and try to understand what life would be like. They were incredibly enterprising, with all manner of traps, smokeless chimneys, and small, camoflagued openings. It gave a fascinating insight, and our excellent guide adding fitting stories and anecdotes where appropriate.

We arrived back and promptly showered, changed and went out for the night. There were a couple of footy matches on, so we watched the first in the company of a Welsh couple who can only be described as utterly mad. However they were great company for the evening, and whilst Jen joined Sarah for pasta, I went for a curry with Colin.

Today we got up late (well 10.30am) and met up with our cyclo drivers from the other day who were to take us on a tour of Chinatown. It was fantastic! We saw a few pagaodas, and also went to the biggest market in HCMC. The sights and smells were fascinating and different to any other market we had visited. Some stalls had over 20 types of mushroom, other, herbal medicines it really was great fun to walk round for 30 mins or so. With it being a little off the beaten track as well there were very few Westerners so you got a real glimpse of the Vietnamese-Chinese culture. Wanting a souvenir of HCMC we decided to get a stamp made (rubber not postage) with our name on and the Vietnamese star in the centre. Now as a 4 year old Mrs. Schaniel told me my handwriting was poor, but until today it had never really cost me anything...(maybe a couple of dropped marks in English apart). Well today my utter inability to make a 'C' look like an 'L' made us Daniel & Jennifer Lornwell. However, when we pointed out the error (clearly mine) they added a top to the 'L' to kind of make it into a 'C'. Certainly unique!

We thanked our drivers by paying them (obviously) and buying them a couple of beers - they then said that they'd got a 4km ride home...I was knackered just sitting in the bloody things so God only knows how they felt. Cyclo Kim and Cyclo Hao - thank you - you were great guides (not that they'll ever read this...)

Back to 'Good Morning Vietnam' cafe tonight and then onto the train in a couple of hours or so...'it's hot, damn hot' so should be a 'fun' journey....although we're travelling in the best berth we can we still have to share it with 2 others....

We got an interesting email about diving in Nha Trang so w're almost certainly going to give it a go. Chest infection is not getting any better so upping the penicillin dosage tomorrow. It might just be the pollution as it is really bad here - looking forward to the beach!

'Good morning Vietnam, hey this is not a test, this is rock and roll, time to rock it from the delta to the DMZ....' [copyright Robin Williams (not to be confused with the maori-tattooed, chain-smoking, ex-drug addict, boyband chubster of similar nomcleture)]

Well we are in (Ohhhhh-eeeee-ohhhhh) Ho Chi Minh City - we've landed in Saigon - it is kinda between the Mekong Delta and the DMZ so hence the quote...the first of many no doubt as as a child myself, James, and Maaaaaaaaartin (private joke) Bamforth leant the soundtrack to 'Good Morning Vietnam' off by heart.

The first thing that hits you about HCMC place is the traffic. This is like Phnom Penh X 10. They have six (!) lanes on each roundabout (on the roundabout not on approach) for traffic... It is absolutely manic. Having said that the people are wonderful, very similar to Cambodians - trying to better themselves and sell you stuff, but very accepting if you decline. So far we have had a game of badminton with a couple of schoolgirls, and played keepy-uppy with the locals, great fun...even better after a couple of beers in fact. Last night we went to the best Italian restaurant in town called...wait for it...not 'La Dolce Vita', 'Pizzeria Firenze' or 'Papa Leone's' but...'Good Morning Vietnam'...oh the irony - at least it wasn't run by a Yank - that would have been too much irony to bear...

Our guesthouse is run by something of a local celebrity - Madam Cuc - and her family. A couple of the girls who run the place have nick-names me 'Happy Buddha' and love poking and prodding my stomach. I presumed this was just light hearted piss-taking but last night when questioned they said they liked by gut as 'the men don't have them over here'...FANTASTIC!!! It is by far the best guesthouse we have stayed in - they make everyone feel so welcome, and we've got air-con/fridge/TV for the same price as budget gueshouses.

Today we went to the Remnents War Museum - which used to be called the American and Chinese War Crimes Museum. The Vietnamese decided that might be a little off-putting to visitors of said countries so re-named it. It truely was harrowing - hundreds of pictures taken from the front line of the enormity of the Vietnam War. It was very one-sided - nothing said of the atrocities in the North of the country - but the images still shone through with real clarity and meant although the view gained was inbalanced you got a vivid understanding of the conflict. It was utterly horrific, and to think it looks as though we may be 10 days away from it happening all over again...what was that about mans inhumanity to man....??

We have been ferried around HCMC by a couple of guys on bikes with a kind of cradle like seat in the front (cyclos) who basically sided with the American's (as did most of the South) during the war, and thus, under the 're-education' programmes of the mid-70s lost their jobs and citezenship when the war finished - forcing them to live on the streets with no identity or benefits. They are not allowed in public buildings and effectively do not exist. There are rumours the government is trying to get rid of them altogether. Anyhoo, our guys were great, showing us the sights of parts we probably wouldn't have got to (backstreets etc...) en route to the railway station...

Now I don't know how much you know about queuing in Vietnam but it is more reminiscent of a 'bundle' at school, except this one is standing up at a kiosk. About 10 people basically form a scrum and whoever shouts the loudest, barges the most, and thrusts money towards the clerk gets served first...not one to miss an opportunity I decided to give it a go, held my own (you've got to remember not only am I wide out here but tall as well - they are all about 3 inches shorter than me) and got served at the exact point at which I entered the queue. I was pretty chuffed to be honest especially as all the signs were in Vietnamese and no English was spoken anywhere. What is even more of a miracle is that the tickets are the correct train, to the correct destination, on the correct day. I even got 2 top bunks!!! We're leaving here on Sunday to go north to the beach resort of Nha Trang where we hope to go diving if the visibility is OK - if not, we're in need of a bit of R & R after Laos so will be soaking up some rays for a couple of days.

Tomorrow we're off to the tunnels at Cu Chi - where the legendary resistence to the US Army was met, and (you've got Jen to thank for this little trip) we're off to to a multi-coloured church where they practice a religion that is a mixture of Buddhism, Christianity, and Confuscionism. What an eclectic mix.

Four other things of note...namely...

We received an email from someone who said reading this was like following a cult - I didn't have the heart to inform him of his mis-spelling. (boom boom!).

Secondly, we are now listed on google!!! If you go to google and type 'Dan Jen round the world' you will see our diary listed...no excuses from anyone now that you forgot the URL.

Thirdly, Jen is cutting my hair tonight, and we have agreed that if it is a mess I am going to shave my head. She is adament she'll do a good job...watch this space. [For some reason she believes trimming my sideburns once means she is now Nicky bloody Clarke]

Fourthly (and finally) - We spent 7 hours yesterday trying to sort our ticketing fiasco out. When we re-routed in the UK originally they should have re-issued a new set of tickets and only taken one out of our pack - instead they took 2 and didn't re-issue. Thus we had no flight coupon to exchange and it took BA 7 hours to sort it out yesterday. That said I don't want to bore you with the details but suffice to say we're now booked on the flight from HK to Manila on 14/4. We also booked and paid for our HK tickets and will arrive there on 27/3. When in HK we are staying with Nic, the French chap we met whilst trekking, and as a thank-you we have offered to cook old-fashioned English food for three nights (not broth and stuff, but shepherd's pie etc...) We are even having a ROAST DINNER...we're counting down the days. Hope you can buy chickens - if not it'll have to be roast cat.

Only joking Mum.

Piccie time!! First up - one picture for all the people we have met whilst travelling who we have bored to death about our dog - somehow we found a picture of him and Jen so here it is...bless him! Then next to it is us at the Chiang Mai Cookery School.



Next is the view over Chiang Mai (with us - obviously!) and us back in Bangkok on top of the 84-storey Bayoke tower which is the tallest hotel in the world.




Dan looking pensive at Buddha Park - on top of the weird pumpkin like structure (Vientiane - Laos), and the favoured mode of transport in Laos.




Just to prove it isn't all bars and beers (Lynn!) a couple of examples of the architecture. The golden one is the Sacred Stupa in Vientiane which is something of a national sybol for the Lao people. The other one is probably one of the nicest temples we have visited - it's the ones where the monks started 'Tum Tum Cheng-ing' at 3am and was about 100m from our guesthouse.



Finally Dan in a waterfall and the picture I have been waiting for since 4th November 1995. Jen in a curry house. Eating curry. Drinking beer!!!! AND ENJOYING IT!!!!!!!!!!



More after Vietnam....

We've booked out tickets outta Laos - flying from here to Bangkok (again...) and then onto Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) on the same day - 6 hours in transit. It was a special offer so cost less than the Vietnam Airlines flight which was on a prop plane via Phnom Penh anyhow. Today we're going to catch up on a few bits and bobs - internet banking, route for Vietnam, get cash advances from banks - that kinda thing, and then off tomorrow.

Well we're now back in Vientiane...what was wrong with Vang Vieng? (I hear you all cry) Well nothing really. It's just that all the activities we wanted to do, tubing, cycling, caving et al all require the weather to be nice, which, for the first time in 8 weeks, it wasn't. Jen described it as jumper weather and the temperature dial must have dipped below 20 degrees (ooh the hardship!) for the first time since we've been away. Thus we decided not to hang around as various people were muttering that once the weather's set it it's in for days or even weeks...

In Vang Vieng we went out with Helen and Rich for a really nice meal and a bottle of Lao Whiskey (and lots of 7-up) of dubious quality (but hey it cost about 80p!!!) and had a really nice night - we all discussed ways we could maybe do the overland Vietnam thing together but they want to go North to Luang Prabang first so we wouldn't be able to do it for a few days. We are now planning to fly (not via Lao Aviation but Vietnam Air) as soon as we can get a flight which should be tomorrow or the day after.

We are down to our last 20 bucks now (which is a little worrying) as all the banks are shut as it was national women's day on Saturday...and no I am not making this up (it is Monday after all and despite women being the fantastic creatures that they are their cause is surely not affected by closing banks???)

So that's about it really the reason we didn't get any sleep on our last night in LP was due to our guesthouse. It is called Tum Tum Cheng which is the sound monk's cymbals make in Laos. We were of course, staying near the oldest and most famous Wat (temple and monk-house - not Bob though) in Laos and Sunday morning seemed to be the time they practiced their Tum Tum Cheng-ing. At 3am.

So it's goodbye to Laos (soon) and hello to country number 4 - Vietnam. our plan here is vague, although we are going to bump into Helen & Rich, because as we go north they are going south and onward into Cambodia. We are trying to arrange this for Vietnam's only dive site. The rugby 7's is all (hopefully) booked although we're still waiting for confirmation. We fly into Hong Kong on 27/3 and out again on 14/4 which gives us a couple of weeks or so to whizz round China.

Not alot else to report - I've got a very mild throat/chest infection, which will hopefully sort itself out, if not we're going to wait for Vietnam as the hospitals here are some of the worst in the world apparently. If we can't get a flight we're gonna have to go on the nightbus - 12 hours of utter hell, followed by a 24 hour train in Vietnam...either way we'll keep you posted.

Just time for a very quick one - we've arrived in Vang Vieng safe and sound after a poor night's sleep - that'll have to wait though as have met up with Helen and Rich and are off out for a beer or two and a nice meal. Hope you are all well.

If you haven't had a reply to an email you sent us please let us know as we have sent a few that we don't think have got through...and we have just about cleared our inbox now...

Having a nightmare with flights...we'd just about decided on what we're doing for the next month or so when BA/Cathay Pacific decide to throw a spanner in the works by not being bloody contactable/not responding to emails/not having an office within about 1,000 miles...anyhoo we're gonna ring BA today to try to sort it...the basics are that we want to fly to Hong Kong from Vietnam via CP on 27/3 in order to get to HK for the rugby 7's (3 days). Then we either want to fly out of HK immediately (if we can't do the China thing for whatever reason) via CP to the Phillipines or Bangkok so we can get to some dive sites...having only taken one flight in Asia (we are entitled to 4 - the 4th is Singapore to Aus in May/June) we should be able to book them but CP haven't even responded to our email and BA have said they can't do anything online...Will update you when we have more news...

We went round Wat Xieng Thong today which was really beautiful, it is probably one of the most famous temples in Laos and has many wonderfully decorated walls and ornate buddhas. It was extremely peaceful, situated at the north end of LP away from the main streets.

Had a busy day today - went to the caves by boat - via (guess...) two craft markets. Bought my mum a pressie - mum you'll have to wait until we ship it back...we arrived at the caves (via a boat trip up the Mekong) before lunch and proceeded to climb an endless number of steps, but it was worth it for the view of the Mekong and a cave with literally thousands of Buddha images both painted on the walls and standing in the form of sculptures. It was both eerie yet serene and we had, luckily (well not luck - I'll let you guess who remembered to pack it...clue it wasn't me...) packed a torch.

An hour later we arrived back in LP in time to grab a quick lunch en route to the waterfalls. They are on about 4 tiers and have many little pools to swim in, so yours truely stripped off and did so, nearly losing his glasses in the process. Jen mumbled something about it being too cold and stayed on the sidelines (paddling). She has recorded the moment I swam under a waterfall for posterity so I am sure that photo will make it onto here some time.

Tomorrow is museum/wat/sunset up the big hill (Pousi hill) in the centre of Luang Prabang day. That aside we will probably have a lie in as we are knackered after our exertions today...

Change of plans again (why do we always do this) we went even further north to Luang Prabang and have decided then to go back to VV/VTE en route to Vietnam - there was no option other than to double back on ourselves so we spent 9 hours on a non-air-con bus (although they said it was air-con). We went through the area where all those tourists/locals were killed without incident, there were Army guys with rifles peppered throughout the route. We did, however nearly have an accident on one of the hundreds of blind corners our driver took on the wrong side of the road. At 40 miles an hour. With a 500m drop the other side. This near-accident seemed to slow him down (for the next couple of bends at least) but it had jarred his gears to a point that the clutch no longer seemed to be working. Now there isn't alot between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang, certainly not a bus garage so when we glided to a halt I kind of thought we'd either have to hi-jack another bus (which were all packed - stuff on the roof, people standing etc...) or stay here for the night. After about 40 minutes of reading the headlines in my head...'Bus tour ends in disaster', 'Hmong rebels capture British tourists, ransome set at 50p' etc... the driver decided he'd go with the old addage 'If you can't find 'em, grind 'em' and thus he did. For 3 hours.

We eventually limped into LP one hour early - no I have no idea how he did it either...we trapsed around looking for a guesthouse but couldn't find one so opted for a hotel (!) which cost $35 a night - the most we'd paid so far - it was OK and we both got a cracking night's sleep. Needless to say we moved this morning and are now holed up in a fantastic little guesthouse near the quiet temple area.
We have spent some time getting our bearings today and are going to the caves and waterfall tomorrow before taking a day out around the Wats and museums the day after. The plan then is to go back to VV on Sunday where we will stay a few days. The trickiest thing at the moment is sorting the flight/bus/donkey to Vietnam. We have heard some horror stories about how the Laos/Viet bus trips are basically organised smuggling rackets so we have considered flying - only prob is that it is either via Lao Aviation - which doesn't publish it's safety record (!) - or Vietnam Airlines on a Fokker F-70....hmmmmm I quite fancy the drug-buses all of a sudden.

The latest plan is still to get up to China but we may come back via the Phillipines as a couple we met said they had heard of some great dive sites there (some fantastic WW II wrecks apparently) and we're both itching to get back in the water again.

OK - some news just in....we've booked our tickets out of here and are off up to Vang Vieng tomorrow (early - 6am start argh!!). It's kinda between VTE and Luang Prabang and it's the place yu can float on inner tubes...

Went for a fantastic meal tonight - a fiver for 3 beers, 2 Jen drinks and one BBQ (that you do yourselves at your table)...bargain...after we went to a shop that sold those sweets on a bracelet thingys...I think they're made in Buxton...fantastic. Still haven't found any salt and vinegar crisps though yet...

OK so 1st day in Vientiane was yesterday - we caught up on some sleep after our flight from BKK. First class was exceptional - how we wish we could afford those tickets all the time. We may well go on another Thai flight and the extra few quid was definitely well spent as we avoided all the queues, got served champagne (at 8.30am!), got breakfast, and even a free (well, erm, stolen) pen.

The airport isn't a million miles from the centre of Vientiane and we were picked up by our hotel which is always a bonus. The hotel was basically used by VIPs (that includes us then eh?) from the mid to late 70s (d'oh) and is austere but charming in a kind of slightly decaying sort of way. We've got an ensuite, a balcony, a bath and a telly (on which, rather frustratingly, the picture on the English sport/news channel is frozen - Greg Norman has, to date, taken over 14 hours to line up a 70 yard pitch and run...) and also hot running water. Can't quite figure the air-con though as it seems to have a mind of it's own.

Last night we stumbled upon a French restaurant, and feeling in the need for some really good grub we decided to splurge out. We had a starter each, a wonderful main (Jen said her rack of lamb in garlic sauce was one of the best things she had ever had in a restaurant), and shared profiteroles for pudding. It was devine. We also had a bottle of French wine too which was really nice despite costing more than all the food put together! We then went back to the hotel where we took over an hour to play one frame of snooker (you should see the size of the pockets, they're tiny, and as for the cues...) and because of excessive fouling on both sides the final score was something like 103-95 which must be nearly a record. I won, so I am sure to be challenged to a rematch tonight.

Today we went to see most of the sights of Vientiane - you're guessed it, more temples. To be fair these were different to other temples in that the stucco and buddha images where different, and also there was a real emphasis on wooden structures and lavish entrances. The most impressive were 'Buddha Park' which is an eclectic mix of both Hindu and Buddha images with the most weird but fascinating being a 40 foot tall pumpkin-like structure you can ascend (from within). It has three levls and a roof from which you can view the rest of the park. The 3 levels depict earth, heaven, and hell and were a bit spooky given they were enclosed inside the structure and thus you could only see the figures inside them by using a torch/camera flash. The other monument that stood out is the Pha That Luang - Great Sacred Stupa. It is a national symbol in Laos, and surely the only way to do it justice is to upload the piccies which we will due soon (hopefully). To briefly describe it though, it is basically about 70m square and is gold from top to bottom. It really is impressive.

We have decided that a couple of nights in Vientiane is probably enough so we're venturing north tomorrow - to Vang Vieng, which is en route to the northern capital - Luang Prabang. In VV we are really looking forward to the inner tubing, which is, not a medical operation, but, floating 8km down the Nam Song river on an inner tube. The locals pull you in every km or so for a drink at the bars that line the river. Sounds wonderful and we have heard so many other people go on about it, so we're really looking forward to it.

Well here we are in Laos (it does have the internet after all (yay) and running water, electricicty, hell we even found a jar of marmite in the shops last night). How would we describe our first impressions of Laos and the capital Vientiane. Well for a start it is only separated from Thailand by a river so you'd probably think that the Thai influence would be there for all to see, and I guess it is...although everthing is just that bit different. For example, the tuk-tuks are still 3 wheel but are bigger in the back and you can get 6 people in - they're called jumbo's. The mossies are 55 times the size and there are about 2 million more (they're more like mini-bats really). The beer is smoother and has lower alcohol content. The people smile and they mean it. Yup first impressions are great.

Although we have the internet it's like wading through treacle in wellies (not sticky but very slow) so we might take a while to reply to the emails (we had 10 in our inbox this morning). It's good to know that you're all well though and that there is some very interesting gossip (thanks Snowy!!) that I am thinking about publishing as I didn't like either party it involved...let's just say it involves 2 consultants at Michael Page (neither of whom I particularly liked) who are doing things they shouldn't...

In other news I have been phoned at around midnight the last 3 nights (from a Thai number) and then the other person has hung up - I have tried ringing them back but they don't speak English - bizarre. We can't register with any Laos phone companies (we're roaming on the Thai band still) so we'll lose reception for a few days starting tomorrow. The plan currently is to take the trip up to Vang Vieng and then up to Luang Probang before coming back south and visiting Savanaket before venturing into Vietnam.

We're back in our favourite internet cafe, near our favourite guesthouse, in our favourite capital (well, favourite in Thailand). Yup back at Suk11 having slept in this morning and missed the floating nun and then travelled from Kanchanaburi to BKK via minibus. The driver was a complete headcase and thus we did the 180km trip in under 2 hours...

We met another couple who are doing pretty much the same route as us - they're from the UK too and we have swapped emails/diary addresses (although as they work in IT their's is all snazzy (what a fantastic 80s word - snazzy!!)) they're in Thailand for another few days or so but we will probably meet up with them in Laos/Vietnam/Oz/wherever. Their website can be viewed here. They also told us about the Qantas frequent flyer program that we forgot to join - d'oh...damn could have got some upgrades somewhere. Have obviously joined now and are trying to get our extra points added - this is surely doomed to failure...

Anyway off into BKK for some food then onto Laos tomorrow. Almost certainly no internet over there so may take us a while to respond but as before - keep the emails coming.

Happy birthday to Ken (my stepdad) who was 21 again yesterday and to my Mum who is the same age on the 4th. Jen's Mum's birthday is at the end of March (28th I think - Lynn??) so happy birthday to her too, although we should be able to update it before then. We have sent cards to all the above - hope you all receive them!!!

The bridge over the River Kwai...constructed at the cost of over 100,000 lives at the hands of the Japanese Army. It is a pretty awe-inspiring site if slightly unspectacular, but really the gravity of the war conveys the message to most...except, bus loads (and I mean they even had a coach park for them - at least 10 buses) of yup, you've guessed it, JAPANESE TOURISTS...

It was a truely sickening site to see them clambering all over it for 'that picture for the top of the telly or the hallway', smiling inanly not stopping for a moment to think of the people that died and suffered in the building of this bridge. These same bussed in, bussed out 'tourists' where conspicuous in their absence from the beautifully maintained allied-war cemetaries and the museums dedicated to the memory of those brave POWs.

Anyway I've vented my spleen now, it's Saturday so off to get a footy fix and some nice Thai food (for a change)! Incidentally I had pie egg and chips for tea in an English restaurant last night - HEAVEN!!!We had tea with an Kiwi bloke called David (the 'youngest' 38 y.o. I have met), and an English girl called Ali (from Gloucs). They were both good company and we're meeting up with them again this evening. Dave is pending 3 months in SEA and it looks likely our paths may cross in Laos or Vietnam.

Back to BKK tomorrow after going to visit the floating nun in the morning (she's a local 'celebrity' who mediates in a large pool of water in a cave and she is meant to bring a kind of karma/peace to those who visit...)