So we´ve booked our trekking but it wasn´t without incident...all I would say to anyone planning on coming here is get things sorted in advance or have more than a fixed 3 or 4 days to do everything. We tried to book in to 2 of the different refugios (didn´t fancy tenting it as it´s v cold and wet) and they were full, just 2 weeks into them reopening after the winter closure. We were told there´d be no problem getting in so we´re obviously a bit annoyed, but have managed to change the walk we´re doing so we´re only away 3 days 2 nights, not 3days 3nights...

The only downside is that we have to stay in Puerto Natales for an extra day which is a dump of the highest order. It´s not scary or unpleasant, just a real dump. I guess that when you are the only city in your country for 5 or 600 km you would be a bit unloved and unkept though.

Our hostel though is lovely, we booked it initially through Hans (Pucon) and although it´s a bit pricey for S.A. it´s really nice, the people that run it are great and the other people staying there seem to be nice too. If you´re wondering why we´re not ice trekking we´ve put that back a few days to the 28th and have booked a flight out of Calafate to Buenos Aires on 29th October.